Büchsenhausen Castle

Weiherburggasse 3-13

Worth knowing

Büchsenhausen today welcomes visitors in a bright yellow colour as they make their way up the steep Weiherburggasse to this place worth seeing. The old sundial on the western side of the façade, a stately entrance area, bay windows, large windows and baroque onion domes are well worth the walk.

The castle, which towers majestically over Innsbruck in neo-Gothic style, was once the Pichsen- und Gueßhaus. Peter Löffler, one of the founders of Innsbruck's early modern armaments industry, manufactured cannons and bells in his foundry here before Maximilian I had the armoury built in Saggen. His son Georg had Büchsenhausen extended into a manor house. The Löfflers had become wealthy thanks to their unique craftsmanship. Georg Löffler could therefore afford to hire master builder Gregor Türing. In the early capitalist era, the building was intended to demonstrate the importance of the family of craftsmen, who owed their prosperity to their skills and not, like the nobility, to their birthright.

Anyone looking towards the Nordkette from Innsbruck could see the imposing estate towering over the Inn, which only faded into the background when Hoettings was built on. In the book "Die Paläste und Bürgerbauten Innsbrucks“ steht zur Entstehung des Schlosses zu lesen:

Der berühmte Geschützgießer Gregor Löffler erbaute auf einem von König Ferdinand gekauften Baumgarten am Fallbach 1539 einen Ansitz, den er nach seinem unweit davon stehenden Gußhaus Büchsenhausen nannte. Auf einem 1545 gekauften Anger unmittelbar östlich daneben errichtete er einen weiteren Bau, der ihm hauptsächlich als Wohnhaus diente.“

In the 17th century, the complex was extended by court chancellor Wilhelm Biener, who used Büchsenhausen as his residence. The legend of the Biener-Weibele back. After his execution, which many felt was unjustified, the soul of the controversial politician found no peace and haunts Büchsenhausen Castle as a ghost to this day. 

In 1837, large parts of the building were remodelled in the neo-Gothic style to its present form. Parts of the façade and the baroque tower are attributed to Johann Martin Gumpp. Today, Büchsenhausen is home to rented flats and a chapel with a beautiful painting by the well-known painter Martin Knoller. The castle is also home to the Künstlerhaus Büchsenhausen.

Buildings such as Büchsenhausen Castle or Weiherburg Castle and the history of the Löfflers give an idea of the shifting balance of power from around 1500 onwards. This was the time when science slowly began to detach itself from the ecclesiastical environment. Rulers like Maximilian had recognised that it was not only soldiers who were needed to win wars. The basis for power was capital, in the case of the Habsburgs it was primarily the Fuggers and innovations such as the weapon technology of the Löfflers. Although foundrymen like Löffler were still craftsmen and not weapons technicians, their expertise was in great demand. In their day, the cannons they cast were as much of an advantage as tanks, flamethrowers or poison gas would be on the battlefields of the First World War. The range of their cannons ensured that England was victorious against the Spanish Armada, laying the foundations for the British Empire legen konnte. Im Buch Der Meister des 7. Siegels tells the story of the Löffler family, who made it from Innsbruck into the big, wide world as armourers. The high point of Innsbruck's gun production ended in 1590 when Hans Christoph Löffler moved to Vienna.

Türing dynasty of master builders: Innsbruck becomes a cosmopolitan city

Siegmund der Münzreiche was the one who brought Niklas Türing (1427 - 1496) to Innsbruck in the 15th century. He made his first documented appearance in 1488. The Türings were a family of stonemasons and master builders from what is now Swabia, which at the time was part of the Habsburg Monarchy as part of Vorderösterreich. Innsbruck had been the royal seat of the Tyrolean princes for several decades, but the architectural splendour had not yet arrived north of the Alps. The city was a collection of wooden houses and not very prestigious. Golden times were dawning for craftsmen and master builders, which were to gather even more momentum under Maximilian. There was a real building boom. Aristocrats wanted to have a residence in the city in order to be as close as possible to the centre of power. In the days before the press, a functioning postal system, fax and e-mail, politics was mainly played out through direct contact.

The Türings made a career in step with the city. It is reported from 1497 that Niklas Türing was in the service of the sovereign as a "paid court mason". When he died in 1517 or 1518, it is not known for certain, he was listed on his gravestone as "Roman imperial majesty's chief foreman" is the title. Together with his son Gregor, he was listed as a master stonemason. This enabled the Türings to acquire citizenship in Innsbruck. By 1506 at the latest, they had a house in the workers' and craftsmen's neighbourhood Anbruggen. In 1509, they were able to acquire the house of today's Gasthof zum Lamm in Mariahilfstraße. Further property was added at what is now Schlossergasse 21.

In the course of the late Middle Ages, the early Gothic period and later the Renaissance gave Europe a new architectural guise with a new understanding of architecture and aesthetics. Buildings such as Notre Dame or the Minster of York set the trend that would characterise the whole of Europe until the onset of the Baroque period. Pointed towers, ribbed vaults, bay windows and playful carvings depicting everyday courtly life are some of the typical features that make the heterogeneous style recognisable. The work of the Türings can be traced particularly well in the old town centre. Many of the town houses, such as the Trautsonhaus still have Gothic ground plans, inner courtyards and carvings.

The Türings left their mark on Gothic Innsbruck in the transitional period between the Middle Ages and early modern times. Thanks to their training, they combined an eye for the big picture and details in their building projects. They were known for their particularly fine stonework, which resulted in ornate portals, arcades, staircases and vaults. They produced relief jewellery with patterns in the typical style of Renaissance art. Grotesques, vases and depictions of animals were typical ways of decorating bay windows and smooth walls. The symmetrical arrangement of the individual elements is also a characteristic of the period.

Niklas Türing is the Goldene Dachl to a large extent. He also created the statue of the Burgriesen Haidla particularly tall member of Siegmund's bodyguard, which can be seen today in the city tower. Emperor Maximilian held him in such high esteem that he allowed him to display the family coat of arms of the Türings and his wife, a fountain and a fish, in the vault of the Goldenen Dachls to immortalise him. His son Gregor immortalised himself with the Trautsonhaus in der Herzog-Friedrich-Straße und am Burgriesenhaus in the Domgasse. The last of the Türings to have an influence on the Innsbruck building scene was Niklas Türing the Younger, who began planning the Hofkirche together with Andrea Crivelli. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the influence of the Gothic style began to wane, especially in what is now Austria. Churches in particular were increasingly remodelled and rebuilt in the Baroque style as part of the Counter-Reformation. Today, Türingstraße in the east of Innsbruck is a reminder of the early modern dynasty of master builders.

The master builders Gumpp and the baroqueisation of Innsbruck

Die Werke der Familie Gumpp bestimmen bis heute sehr stark das Aussehen Innsbrucks. Vor allem die barocken Teile der Stadt sind auf die Hofbaumeister zurückzuführen. Der Begründer der Dynastie in Tirol, Christoph Gumpp (1600-1672) war eigentlich Tischler. Sein Talent allerdings hatte ihn für höhere Weihen auserkoren. Den Beruf des Architekten gab es zu dieser Zeit noch nicht. Michelangelo und Leonardo Da Vinci galten in ihrer Zeit als Handwerker, nicht als Künstler. Der Ruhm ihrer Kunstwerke allerdings hatte den Wert italienischer Baumeister innerhalb der Aristokratie immens nach oben getrieben. Wer auf sich hielt, beschäftigte jemand aus dem Süden am Hof. Christoph Gumpp, obwohl aus dem Schwabenland nach Innsbruck gekommen, trat nach seiner Mitarbeit an der Dreifaltigkeitskirche in die Fußstapfen der von Ferdinand II. hochgeschätzten Renaissance-Architekten aus Italien. Auf Geheiß Ferdinands Nachfolger Leopold V. reiste Gumpp nach Italien, um dort Theaterbauten zu studieren- Er sollte bei den kulturell den Ton angebenden Nachbarn südlich des Brenners sein Wissen für das geplante landesfürstliche Comedihaus aufzupolieren. Gumpps offizielle Tätigkeit als Hofbaumeister begann 1633 und er sollte diesen Titel an die nächsten beiden Generationen weitervererben. Über die folgenden Jahrzehnte sollte Innsbruck einer kompletten Renovierung unterzogen werden. Neue Zeiten bedurften eines neuen Designs, abseits des düsteren, von der Gotik geprägten Mittelalters. Die Gumpps traten nicht nur als Baumeister in Erscheinung. Sie waren Tischler, Maler, Kupferstecher und Architekten, was ihnen erlaubte, ähnlich der Bewegung der Tiroler Moderne rund um Franz Baumann und Clemens Holzmeister Anfang des 20. Jahrhunderts, Projekte ganzheitlich umzusetzen. Johann Martin Gumpp der Ältere, Georg Anton Gumpp und Johann Martin Gumpp der Jüngere waren für viele der bis heute prägendsten Gebäude zuständig. So stammen die Wiltener Stiftskirche, die Mariahilfkirche, die Johanneskirche und die Spitalskirche von den Gumpps.  Neben Kirchen und ihrer Arbeit als Hofbaumeister machten sie sich auch als Planer von Profanbauten einen Namen. Viele der Bürgerhäuser und Stadtpaläste Innsbrucks wie das Taxispalais oder das Alte Landhaus in der Maria-Theresien-Straße wurden von Ihnen entworfen. Das Meisterstück aber war das Comedihaus, das Christoph Gumpp für Leopold V. und Claudia de Medici im ehemaligen Ballhaus plante. Die überdimensionierten Maße des damals richtungsweisenden Theaters, das in Europa zu den ersten seiner Art überhaupt gehörte, erlaubte nicht nur die Aufführung von Theaterstücken, sondern auch Wasserspiele mit echten Schiffen und aufwändige Pferdeballettaufführungen. Das Comedihaus war ein Gesamtkunstwerk an und für sich, das in seiner damaligen Bedeutung wohl mit dem Festspielhaus in Bayreuth des 19. Jahrhunderts oder der Elbphilharmonie heute verglichen werden muss. Das ehemalige Wohnhaus der Familie Gumpp kann heute noch begutachtet werden, es beherbergt heute die Konditorei Munding, eines der traditionsreichsten Cafés der Stadt.

Baroque: art movement and art of living

Anyone travelling in Austria will be familiar with the domes and onion domes of churches in villages and towns. This form of church tower originated during the Counter-Reformation and is a typical feature of the Baroque architectural style. They are also predominant in Innsbruck's cityscape. Innsbruck's most famous places of worship, such as the cathedral, St John's Church and the Jesuit Church, are in the Baroque style. Places of worship were meant to be magnificent and splendid, a symbol of the victory of true faith. Religiousness was reflected in art and culture: grand drama, pathos, suffering, splendour and glory combined to create the Baroque style, which had a lasting impact on the entire Catholic-oriented sphere of influence of the Habsburgs and their allies between Spain and Hungary.

The cityscape of Innsbruck changed enormously. The Gumpps and Johann Georg Fischer as master builders as well as Franz Altmutter's paintings have had a lasting impact on Innsbruck to this day. The Old Country House in the historic city centre, the New Country House in Maria-Theresien-Straße, the countless palazzi, paintings, figures - the Baroque was the style-defining element of the House of Habsburg in the 17th and 18th centuries and became an integral part of everyday life. The bourgeoisie did not want to be inferior to the nobles and princes and had their private houses built in the Baroque style. Pictures of saints, depictions of the Mother of God and the heart of Jesus adorned farmhouses.

Baroque was not just an architectural style, it was an attitude to life that began after the end of the Thirty Years' War. The Turkish threat from the east, which culminated in the two sieges of Vienna, determined the foreign policy of the empire, while the Reformation dominated domestic politics. Baroque culture was a central element of Catholicism and its political representation in public, the counter-model to Calvin's and Luther's brittle and austere approach to life. Holidays with a Christian background were introduced to brighten up people's everyday lives. Architecture, music and painting were rich, opulent and lavish. In theatres such as the Comedihaus dramas with a religious background were performed in Innsbruck. Stations of the cross with chapels and depictions of the crucified Jesus dotted the landscape. Popular piety in the form of pilgrimages and the veneration of the Virgin Mary and saints found its way into everyday church life.

The Baroque piety was also used to educate the subjects. Even though the sale of indulgences was no longer a common practice in the Catholic Church after the 16th century, there was still a lively concept of heaven and hell. Through a virtuous life, i.e. a life in accordance with Catholic values and good behaviour as a subject towards the divine order, one could come a big step closer to paradise. The so-called Christian edification literature was popular among the population after the school reformation of the 18th century and showed how life should be lived. The suffering of the crucified Christ for humanity was seen as a symbol of the hardship of the subjects on earth within the feudal system. People used votive images to ask for help in difficult times or to thank the Mother of God for dangers and illnesses they had overcome. Great examples of this can be found on the eastern façade of the basilica in Wilten.

The historian Ernst Hanisch described the Baroque and the influence it had on the Austrian way of life as follows:

Österreich entstand in seiner modernen Form als Kreuzzugsimperialismus gegen die Türken und im Inneren gegen die Reformatoren. Das brachte Bürokratie und Militär, im Äußeren aber Multiethnien. Staat und Kirche probierten den intimen Lebensbereich der Bürger zu kontrollieren. Jeder musste sich durch den Beichtstuhl reformieren, die Sexualität wurde eingeschränkt, die normengerechte Sexualität wurden erzwungen. Menschen wurden systematisch zum Heucheln angeleitet.

The rituals and submissive behaviour towards the authorities left their mark on everyday culture, which still distinguishes Catholic countries such as Austria and Italy from Protestant regions such as Germany, England or Scandinavia. The Austrians' passion for academic titles has its origins in the Baroque hierarchies. The expression Baroque prince describes a particularly patriarchal and patronising politician who knows how to charm his audience with grand gestures. While political objectivity is valued in Germany, the style of Austrian politicians is theatrical, in keeping with the Austrian bon mot of "Schaumamal".

Leopold V & Claudia de Medici: Glamour and splendour in Innsbruck

Eines der bekanntesten und für Innsbruck bedeutendsten Fürstenpaare regierte Tirol exakt während der Zeit, in der der Dreißigjährige Krieg Europa verheerte. Als Maximilian III. von Österreich kinderlos starb, brauchte es einen Ersatz als Statthalter Tirols. Der Habsburger Leopold (1586 – 1632), im Jahr 1618 noch Bischof von Passau, wurde auserkoren, um die landesfürstlichen Regierungsgeschäfte zu führen. 1625 verzichtete der mittlerweile zum Herzog Erhobene auf seine kirchlichen Würden um heiraten und eine neue Tiroler Linie des Hauses Habsburg gründen zu können. Zu seiner Braut wurde Claudia de Medici (1604 – 1648) vom mächtigen und reichen Fürstengeschlecht aus der Toskana erkoren. Die Medici hatten mit Baumwoll- und Textilhandel, vor allem aber mit Finanzgeschäften ein Vermögen verdient und waren zu politischer Macht gekommen.

Unter den Medici war Florenz das kulturelle und finanzwirtschaftliche Zentrum Europas geworden, vergleichbar mit dem New York des 20. Jahrhunderts. Leopold setzte alles daran, um seine Residenzstadt in diese Liga zu katapultieren.  Die Hochzeitsfeierlichkeiten sollten der Verbindung zwischen Habsburg und Medici würdig sein. Es war eines der prächtigsten Feste in der Geschichte Innsbrucks und hielt die Stadt zwei Wochen lang in Atem. Das Brautpaar zog in einem langen Zug durch zwei eigens errichtete Pforten in der Stadt ein. Ein breites Unterhaltungsprogramm, darunter „Bears, Turks and Moors“ versetzten Gäste und Bürger in Verzückung und Erstaunen.

Innsbruck wurde unter Leopolds Regentschaft großflächig barock umgestaltet. Am Hof fanden spektakuläre Feste im Beisein des europäischen Hochadels statt. Showeinlagen wie Löwenkämpfe mit den Tieren aus dem landesfürstlichen Bestand, den Ferdinand II. am Hofgarten gründen ließ, Theater und Konzerte dienten der Zerstreuung der höfischen Gesellschaft. Auch die Sitten der rauen Älpler sollten sich bessern. Fluchen, Herumschreien und der Gebrauch von Schusswaffen auf offener Straße wurden ebenso verboten wie das freie Umherlaufen von Nutztieren innerhalb des Stadtgebietes. Abfälle, die besonders bei ausbleibendem Regen, wenn kein Wasser durch das Kanalsystem floss, ein Problem waren, wurden per fürstlicher Verordnung regelmäßig gereinigt.

The couple's reign, which was characterised by the turmoil of the Thirty Years' War, was less splendid than their idea of a royal seat. Although Innsbruck was spared direct acts of war, the supply situation was nevertheless precarious. Leopold and Claudia only allowed their glamourous court life to be limited by this.

After Leopold's early death, Claudia ruled the country with the help of her court chancellor Wilhelm Biener (1590 - 1651) with modern, early absolutist policies and a strict hand. Biener centralised parts of the administration and disempowered the often corrupt and arbitrary local petty nobility in favour of the prince in order to finance the expansion of the Tyrolean defence system. The Swedes, who were notorious for their brutality, threatened the Tyrolean borders, but could thus be repelled. Defence fortifications were built near Scharnitz on today's German border and named after the sovereign princess Porta Claudia genannt. Überreste davon sind noch heute zu besichtigen. Der unbequeme Biener wurde vom Nachfolger Claudias, Erzherzog Ferdinand Karl, und den Landständen als Persona non grata imprisoned and beheaded in 1651 after a show trial.

A touch of Florence and Medici still characterises Innsbruck today: both the Jesuit church, where Claudia and Leopold found their final resting place, and the Mariahilf parish church still bear the coat of arms of their family with the red balls and lilies. The Old Town Hall in the old town centre is also known as Claudiana known. The theatre in Innsbruck is particularly associated with Leopold's name to this day, and a fountain on the forecourt commemorates him. A street name in Saggen was dedicated to Chancellor Wilhelm Biener.

Innsbruck's industrial revolutions

In the 15th century, the first early form of industrialisation began to develop in Innsbruck. Bell and weapon founders such as the Löfflers set up factories in Hötting, Mühlau and Dreiheiligen, which were among the leading factories of their time. Although entrepreneurs were not of noble blood, they often had more capital at their disposal than the aristocracy. The old hierarchies still existed, but were beginning to become at least somewhat fragile. Industry not only changed the rules of the social game with the influx of new workers and their families, it also had an impact on the appearance of Innsbruck. Unlike the farmers, the labourers were not the subjects of any master. They brought new fashions with them and dressed differently. Capital from outside came into the city. Houses and churches were built for the newly arrived subjects. The large workshops changed the smell and sound of the city. The smelting works were loud, the smoke from the furnaces polluted the air.

The second wave of industrialisation came late in Innsbruck compared to other European regions. The Small craftThe town's former craft businesses, which were organised in guilds, came under pressure from the achievements of modern goods production. In St. Nikolaus, Wilten, Mühlau and Pradl, modern factories were built along the Mühlbach stream and the Sill Canal. Many innovative company founders came from outside Innsbruck. Peter Walde, who moved to Innsbruck from Lusatia, founded his company in 1777 in what is now Innstrasse 23, producing products made from fat, such as tallow candles and soaps. Eight generations later, Walde is still one of the oldest family businesses in Austria. Today, you can buy the result of centuries of tradition in soap and candle form in the listed headquarters with its Gothic vaults. In 1838, the spinning machine arrived via the Dornbirn company Herrburger & Rhomberg over the Arlberg to Pradl. H&R had acquired a plot of land on the Sillgründe. Thanks to the river's water power, the site was ideal for the heavy machinery used in the textile industry. In addition to the traditional sheep's wool, cotton was now also processed.

Just like 400 years earlier, the Second Industrial Revolution changed the city forever. Neighbourhoods such as Mühlau, Pradl and Wilten grew rapidly. The factories were often located in the centre of residential areas. Over 20 factories used the Sill Canal around 1900, and the noise and exhaust fumes from the engines were hell for the neighbours, as a newspaper article from 1912 shows:

„Entrüstung ruft bei den Bewohnern des nächst dem Hauptbahnhofe gelegenen Stadtteiles der seit einiger Zeit in der hibler´schen Feigenkaffeefabrik aufgestellte Explosionsmotor hervor. Der Lärm, welchen diese Maschine fast den ganzen Tag ununterbrochen verbreitet, stört die ganz Umgebung in der empfindlichsten Weise und muß die umliegenden Wohnungen entwerten. In den am Bahnhofplatze liegenden Hotels sind die früher so gesuchten und beliebten Gartenzimmer kaum mehr zu vermieten. Noch schlimmer als der ruhestörende Lärm aber ist der Qualm und Gestank der neuen Maschine…“

Many members of the lesser nobility also invested the money from the 1848 land relief in industry and business. The increasing demand for labour was met by former farmhands and farmers without land. While the new wealthy entrepreneurial class had villas built in Wilten, Pradl and Saggen and middle-class employees lived in apartment buildings in the same neighbourhoods, the workers were housed in workers' hostels and mass accommodation. Some worked in businesses such as the gas works, the quarry or in one of the factories, while others consumed the wealth. Shifts of 12 hours in cramped, noisy and sooty conditions demanded everything from the workers. Child labour was not banned until the 1840s. Women earned only a fraction of what men were paid. Workers often lived in tenements built by their employers and were at their mercy due to the lack of labour laws. There was neither social security nor unemployment insurance. Those who were unable to work had to rely on the welfare organisations of their home town. It should be noted that this everyday life of the labourers, which we find terrifying, was no different from the working conditions in the villages, but developed from them. Child labour, inequality and precarious working conditions were also the norm in agriculture.

However, industrialisation did not only affect everyday material life. Innsbruck experienced the kind of gentrification that can be observed today in trendy urban neighbourhoods such as Prenzlauer Berg in Berlin. The change from the rural life of the village to the city involved more than just a change of location. In one of his texts, the Innsbruck writer Josef Leitgeb tells us how people experienced the urbanisation of what was once a rural area:

„…viel fremdes, billig gekleidetes Volk, in wachsenden Wohnblocks zusammengedrängt, morgens, mittags und abends die Straßen füllend, wenn es zur Arbeit ging oder von ihr kam, aus Werkstätten, Läden, Fabriken, vom Bahndienst, die Gesichter oft blaß und vorzeitig alternd, in Haltung, Sprache und Kleidung nichts Persönliches mehr, sondern ein Allgemeines, massenhaft Wiederholtes und Wiederholbares: städtischer Arbeitsmensch. Bahnhof und Gaswerk erschienen als Kern dieser neuen, unsäglich fremden Landschaft.“

For many Innsbruck residents, the revolutionary year of 1848 and the new economic circumstances led to bourgeoisie. There were always stories of people who rose through the ranks with hard work, luck, talent and a little financial start-up aid. Well-known Innsbruck examples outside the hotel and catering industry that still exist today are the Tyrolean stained glass business, the Hörtnagl grocery store and the Walde soap factory. Successful entrepreneurs took over the former role of the aristocratic landlords. Together with the numerous academics, they formed a new class that also gained more and more political influence. Beda Weber wrote about this in 1851:

Their social circles are without constraint, and there is a distinctly metropolitan flavour that is not so easy to find elsewhere in Tyrol."

The workers also became bourgeois. While the landlord in the countryside was still master of the private lives of his farmhands and maidservants and was able to determine their lifestyle up to and including sexuality via the release for marriage, the labourers were now at least somewhat freer individually. They were poorly paid, but at least they now received their own wages instead of board and lodging and were able to organise their private affairs for themselves without the landlord's guardianship.

Innsbruck is not a traditional working-class city. Nevertheless, Tyrol never saw the formation of a significant labour movement as in Vienna. Innsbruck has always been predominantly a commercial and university city. Although there were social democrats and a handful of communists, the number of workers was always too small to really make a difference. May Day marches are only attended by the majority of people for cheap schnitzel and free beer. There are hardly any other memorials to industrialisation and the achievements of the working class. In St.-Nikolaus-Gasse and in many tenement houses in Wilten and Pradl, a few houses have been preserved that give an impression of the everyday life of Innsbruck's working class.