Innsbruck is proud of its many titles. University city, Austria's capital of sport or home to the world's best hospital. If you take a look at the list of the region's largest employers or at its history, Innsbruck is one thing above all: a city of civil servants. The university and provincial hospital are the largest single employers. However, if you add up the public servants at all levels, city, state and federal, and include the outsourced companies owned by the public sector such as ÖBB, TIWAG or Innsbrucker Kommunalbetriebe as well as teachers and the police, the civil servants are clearly in the majority. At the latest since the relocation of the royal residence under Frederick IV, civil servants have not only made up a considerable proportion of the city's population in quantitative terms, they have also determined the fate of the city in an influential, albeit inconspicuous manner. To this day, it is civil servants who keep things running smoothly. They enforce laws, take care of the planning and maintenance of infrastructure, eagerly keep records of the population in order to collect taxes and draft soldiers. 

Die erste nennenswerte Bürokratie kam wohl mit dem Roman Empire. Den Römern folgten im frühen Mittelalter die Brüder des Stiftes Wilten. Die schreibkundigen Männer verwalteten nicht nur die herzoglichen und eigenen Besitztümer durch ihre Urbare und hoben die Abgaben bei den bäuerlichen Untertanen ein, sondern legten Taufmatrikel, Heiratsverzeichnisse und Sterbebücher an. Die Feudalherrschaft erforderte zwar einen Panoramablick über das, was sich innerhalb ihres Herrschaftsbereichs abspielte, vor allem in der Stadt war das Leben aber eher von den Beschränkungen der Zünfte als von denen der Obrigkeit bestimmt. Ein Magistrat war nur oberflächlich vorhanden. Es gab Gesetze, aber keine Polizei, Steuern aber kein Finanzamt. Städtische Infrastruktur war praktisch nicht vorhanden, schließlich gab es weder fließend Wasser, elektrischen Strom, Kanalisation, städtische Kindergarten, ein Arbeitsamt oder eine Krankenkasse. Die zur Stadt erhobene Gemeinde Innsbruck wurde lange von einem Stadtrichter, ab dem 14. Jahrhundert von einem Bürgermeister mit Gemeinderat regiert. Es handelte sich dabei nicht um hauptberufliche Beamte, sondern Mitglieder der städtischen Elite. Nur wenige Menschen wie Zöllner, Kornmesser, Schreiber oder Turmwächter standem bei der Stadt unter Lohn und Brot.

Im 15. Jahrhundert wurden Berufswelt und Gesellschaft differenzierter, die Heere größer und die Steuerbelastungen höher. Das traditionelle Gewohnheitsrecht wurde vom modernen, für Unkundige schwerer durchschaubaren Römischen Recht abgelöst. Mit der Stadt wuchs auch der Beamtenapparat. Zwischen Anfang des 15. Jahrhunderts und der Regierung Leopolds V. war Innsbruck von einer Handels- und Transportsiedlung zu einer Beamtenstadt geworden. Von den circa 5500 Einwohnern gehörte mehr als die Hälfte dem Hofstaat, der städtischen Beamtenschaft, der Universität oder dem Klerus an. Hofhaltung, Verwaltung, Zoll, Steuern, Fernhandel und Finanzwirtschaft benötigten schreibkundiges Personal. Die Verwaltung war, vor Handwerk, Transport und Gastronomie zum wichtigsten Wirtschaftszweig der Stadt geworden. 

Wenn überhaupt kamen die Bürger mit diesen fremden Beamten nur in unangenehmen Situationen in Berührung. Besonders straff wurden die Zügel von Maximilian I. angezogen. Seine zentral beschlossenen Gesetze wurden von den Reichskreisen lokal umgesetzt. Die besoldeten Beamten durchdrangen das Leben des Einzelnen in einer Art und Weise, die es im Mittelalter so nicht gab. Zu allem Übel kamen die Beamten oft aus dem Ausland. Besonders Italiener und Burgunder waren gefragte Schlüsselarbeitskräfte, die aber mit der einheimischen Bevölkerung fremdelten. Nicht nur sprachen sie oft kein Deutsch, sie konnten lesen und schreiben, waren Angestellte und keine untertänigen Landwirten. Sie hatten mehr Geld zur Verfügung, kleideten sich anders, hatten andere Sitten und aßen andere Speisen. Anders als der Landesfürst beriefen sie sich nicht auf Gott, sondern auf von Menschen geschriebene, von der Antike und der Vernunft inspirierte Regelwerke. Je nach Mode, Sitte und Moralvorstellung der Zeit, änderten sich die Gesetze. So wie Naturschutz oder Tempolimits auf Autobahnen heute immer wieder zur Diskussion gestellt werden, obwohl sie Sinn machen, wurden damals Verbote von Ausspucken, Entsorgung des Nachttopfes, Holzbauten und Viehhaltung innerhalb der Stadtmauern kritisch gesehen, obwohl sie Hygiene und Sicherheit drastisch erhöhten. 

While it had long been customary for citizens to take certain liberties with logging, building, hunting and fishing in the absence of the ruler, the bureaucracy was always present. While the sovereign was seen as a good father to his subjects and bishops and abbots were strict landlords, but could at least offer salvation in return, the new authorities appeared anonymous, aloof, faceless, foreign and distant. The basis for negotiation that you had as a subject in direct contact with your landlord was buried by the merciless law, at least if you could not pay bribes or did not know anyone in a higher position. When unconditional faith in the increasingly corrupt clergy began to crumble and Ferdinand I appointed the Spaniard Salamanca as the country's chief financial administrator, the underlying dissatisfaction turned into open rebellion in 1525. The subjects did not demand the removal of the prince, but a change in the rule of the clergy and foreign officials. Even in the 17th century, it was the country's highest civil servant, Wilhelm Biener, whose head rolled and not that of the sovereign.

Bureaucracy, the rule of the administration, also had advantages for the subjects. It established fixed rules where arbitrariness often prevailed. The law, harmonised across different territories, was more predictable. And with a bit of luck and talent, it was possible to climb the social ladder by serving the public authorities, even without belonging to the nobility. Michael Gaismair, one of the leaders of the 1525 rebellion, was the son of a mining entrepreneur and had been in the service of the provincial governor before his career as a revolutionary. 

The next modernisation of the administration took place in the 18th century. Under the enlightened, absolutist monarchs Maria Theresa and Joseph II, a new wind blew right down to the municipal level. Innsbruck was given a police force for the first time. The city administration was modernised in 1784. Instead of the old city council with Common regierte nun ein von einem Rat, vor allem aber von Beamten unterstützter, offiziell in Sold und Brot des Staates stehender Bürgermeister. Fünf angestellte Magistratsräte und sechs unbesoldete Magistratsräte, und über 30 Beamte bildeten das Stadtmagistrat. Er bestand damit nicht mehr aus Laien, sondern zu einem großen Teil aus Experten, die zwar immer noch vorwiegend aus Mitgliedern des Kleinadels bestanden, sich nun aber durch Prüfungen für die Ausübung ihres Amtes qualifizieren mussten. Die Bürokratie erhielt auf operativer politischer Ebene mehr Macht. Während der Bürgermeisterposten zeitlich begrenzt war, kamen Beamte in den Genuss einer lebenslangen, unkündbaren Stellung. Diese Pragmatisierung und ein neuerlicher Schwall an neuen, oftmals den Traditionen widersprechenden Gesetzen, verstärkten den Ruf der Beamten, abgehoben und bürgerfern zu sein. Als mit der bayerischen Besetzung Tirols das Element des ausländischen, noch dazu nach französischem Vorbild, dazukam, brach 1809 erneut ein Aufstand aus. Die Massenaushebung junger Männer für den Militärdienst, eine Reglementierung des religiösen Lebens und eine Impfpflicht, durchgesetzt von bayerischen Beamten, war zu viel für die Tiroler Seelenlandschaft. 

After 1809, bureaucracy found its way into more and more areas of life in the context of industrialisation and new technologies. Not only the state system through taxes and the military, but also the university, schools, construction, railway, post office and institutions such as the Chamber of Commerce and Industry required administrative staff. The city grew in terms of inhabitants and businesses. New infrastructure such as gas, sewerage and electricity and new ideas about hygiene, food control, health and education called for new employees in the city magistrate's office. The old town hall in the historic city centre became too small. A planned extension proved to be impossible. In 1897, the officials moved to the new town hall in Maria-Theresien-Straße. The move was made possible by a generous donation from the industrialist and hotelier Leonhard Lang. In 1905, the Tyrolean provincial government and its various offices found a new home for a short time in Palais Fugger-Taxis before moving to the Gauhaus on Landhausplatz.

Als 1918 die Monarchie zusammenbrach, war der Übergang nicht nahtlos, dank der Strukturen verlief er aber unvorstellbar glatt. Es war aber nicht mehr der Kaiser, der die Last des Staates trug, sondern eine Heerschar an Staatsbediensteten und Hütern der Ordnung, die für Wasser, Strom und ein funktionierendes Eisenbahnnetz sorgten. Mit Eduard Klingler und Theodor Prachensky hinterließen zwei Bauamtsleiter in der ersten Hälfte des 20. Jahrhunderts ihre bis heute gut sichtbaren Spuren im Innsbrucker Stadtbild. Die Republik übernahm mit Agenden wie dem öffentlichen Wohnbau, dem Arbeitsamt, dem Bildungswesen, der städtischen Infrastruktur, Straßenbau, öffentlichem Verkehr bis hin zu Meldewesen und Hochzeit mehr oder minder alle Aufgaben des täglichen Lebens von Monarchie und Kirche. Wer sich also beim nächsten Besuch im Neuen Rathaus über überbordendes Beamtentum und quälend langsame Bürokratie ärgert, dem sei in Erinnerung gerufen, dass der Wohlfahrtsstaat in Person seiner Staatsdiener von der Wiege bis zur Bahre das soziale Auskommen und öffentliche Infrastruktur Tausender Menschen meist unbemerkt managed.

Many tyroleans see themselves as an own nation. With „Tirol isch lei oans“, „Zu Mantua in Banden“ and „Dem Land Tirol die Treue", the federal state has three more or less official anthems. As in other federal states, there are historical reasons for this pronounced local patriotism. Tyrolean freedom and independence are often invoked as a local shrine to underpin this. It is often referred to as the first democracy in mainland Europe, which is probably an exaggeration considering the feudal and hierarchical history of the country up until the 20th century. However, the country cannot be denied a certain peculiarity in its development, even if it was less about the participation of broad sections of the population and more about the local elites curtailing the power of the sovereign.

The first act was what the Innsbruck historian Otto Stolz (1881 - 1957) in the 1950s exuberantly described, in reference to English history, as the Magna Charta Libertatum celebrated. After the marriage of the Bavarian Ludwig von Wittelsbach to the Tyrolean princess Margarete von Tirol-Görz, the Bavarian Wittelsbachs were rulers of Tyrol for a short time. In order to win over the Tyrolean population to his side, Ludwig decided to offer the provincial estates a treat in the 14th century. In the Großen Freiheitsbrief of 1342, Louis promised the Tyroleans that he would not enact any laws or tax increases without first consulting the provincial estates. However, there can be no question of a democratic constitution as understood in the 21st century, as these provincial estates were primarily the aristocratic, landowning classes, who represented their interests accordingly. Although one copy of the document mentioned the inclusion of peasants as a class in the Diet, this version never became official.

As the towns and bourgeoisie gained more political clout in the 15th century due to their economic importance, a counterweight to the nobility developed within the estates. At the Diet of 1423 under Frederick IV, 18 members of the nobility met 18 members of the towns and peasantry for the first time. Gradually, a fixed composition developed in the provincial diets of the 15th and 16th centuries. The Tyrolean bishops of Brixen and Trento, the abbots of the Tyrolean monasteries, the nobility, representatives of the towns and the peasantry were all represented. The provincial governor presided over the meeting. Of course, the resolutions and wishes of the provincial parliament were not binding for the prince, but it was probably a reassuring feeling for the ruler to know that the representatives of the population were on his side or that difficult decisions were supported. 

Another important document for the country was the Tiroler Landlibell. In 1511, Maximilian stipulated, among other things, that Tyrolean soldiers should only be called up for military service in defence of their own country. The reason for Maximilian's generosity was less his love for the Tyroleans than the need to keep the Tyrolean mines running instead of burning out the precious labourers and the peasantry that supplied them on the battlefields of Europe. The fact that in Landlibell At the same time, massive restrictions on the population and higher costs are often forgotten. The Landlibell regulated not only the strength of the troop contingents but also the special taxes that were levied. The nobility and clergy had to use the capital gains from their estates as a tax base, which often amounted to a rough estimate. Towns, on the other hand, were taxed according to the number of fireplaces in the houses, which could be calculated quite accurately. Coveted miners were exempt from these taxes and only had to serve in the army in extreme emergencies.

This special regulation for national defence, as laid down in the Landlibell, was one of the reasons for the uprising of 1809, when young Tyroleans were conscripted for the mobilisation of the armed forces as part of general conscription. To this day, the Napoleonic Wars, when the Catholic crown land was threatened by the "godless French" and the revolutionary social order, characterise the Tyrolean self-image. During this defensive struggle, an alliance was formed between Catholicism and Tyrol. The Tyrolean marksmen entrusted their fate to the heart of Jesus before a decisive battle against Napoleon's armies in June 1796 and entered into a covenant with God personally, which would protect their Heiliges Land Tirol was supposed to protect her. Another identity-forming legend from 1796 centres around a young woman from the village of Spinges. Katharina Lanz, who was known as the Jungfrau von Spinges went down in the history of the country as an identity-forming national heroine, is said to have motivated the almost defeated Tyrolean troops with her imperious demeanour in battle to such an extent that they were ultimately able to achieve victory over the French superiority. Depending on the account, she is said to have taught Napoleon's troops to fear with a pitchfork, a flail or a scythe similar to the French Maid Joan of Arc. Legends and traditions surrounding the marksmen and the feeling of being an independent nation chosen by God, which happened to be attached to the Republic of Austria, go back to these legends.

The particular identities of the individual crown lands did not correspond to what enlightened politicians imagined a modern state to be. Under Maria Theresa, the central state was strengthened vis-à-vis the crown lands and the local nobility. The subjects' sense of belonging should not be to the province of Tyrol, but to the House of Habsburg. In the 19th century, the aim was to strengthen identification with the monarchy and develop a national consciousness. The press, visits by the ruling family, monuments such as the Rudolfsbrunnen or the opening of Mount Isel with Hofer as a Tyrolean loyal to the emperor were intended to help turn the population into subjects loyal to the emperor.

When the Habsburg Empire collapsed after the First World War, the crown land of Tyrol also broke up. What had been known as South Tyrol until 1918, the Italian-speaking part of the province between Riva on Lake Garda and Salurn in the Adige Valley, became Trentino with Trento as its capital. The German-speaking part of the province between Neumarkt and the Brenner Pass is now South Tyrol / Alto Adige, an autonomous region of the Republic of Italy with the capital Bolzano.

Throughout the centuries, Innsbruckers have felt themselves to be Tyroleans, Germans, Catholics and subjects of the emperor. Before 1945, however, hardly anyone felt Austrian. It was only after the Second World War that a sense of belonging to Austria slowly began to develop in Tyrol. To this day, however, many Tyroleans are proud of their local identity and like to distinguish themselves from the inhabitants of other federal states and countries. For many Tyroleans, after more than 100 years, the Brenner Pass still represents a Injustice limit even if the Europa der Regionen cooperates politically across borders at EU level.

The legend of the Holy Landthe independent Tyrolean nation and the first mainland democracy has survived to this day. The bon mot "bisch a Tiroler bisch a Mensch, bisch koana, bisch a Oasch" summarises Tyrolean nationalism succinctly. The fact that the historic crown land of Tyrol was a multi-ethnic construct with Italians, Ladins, Cimbrians and Rhaeto-Romans is often overlooked in right-wing circles. Laws from the federal capital of Vienna or even the EU in Brussels are still viewed with scepticism today. Nationalists on both sides of the Brenner Pass still make use of the Jungfrau von Spingesthe heart of Jesus and Andreas Hofer, to publicise their concerns. The Säcularfeier des Bundes Tirols mit dem göttlichen Herzen Jesu was still celebrated in the 20th century with great participation from the political elite.

The works of the Gumpp family still strongly characterise the appearance of Innsbruck today. The baroque parts of the city in particular can be traced back to them. The founder of the dynasty in Tyrol, Christoph Gumpp (1600-1672), was actually a carpenter. However, his talent had chosen him for higher honours. The profession of architect or artist did not yet exist at that time; even Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci were considered craftsmen. After working on the Holy Trinity Church, the Swabian-born Gumpp followed in the footsteps of the Italian master builders who had set the tone under Ferdinand II. At the behest of Leopold V, Gumpp travelled to Italy to study theatre buildings and to learn from his contemporary style-setting colleagues his expertise for the planned royal palace. Comedihaus polish up.

His official work as court architect began in 1633. New times called for a new design, away from the Gothic-influenced architecture of the Middle Ages and the horrors of the Thirty Years' War. Over the following decades, Innsbruck underwent a complete renovation under the regency of Claudia de Medici. Gumpp passed on his title to the next two generations within the family. The Gumpps were not only active as master builders. They were also carpenters, painters, engravers and architects, which allowed them to create a wide range of works similar to the Tiroler Moderne around Franz Baumann and Clemens Holzmeister at the beginning of the 20th century to realise projects holistically. They were also involved as planners in the construction of the fortifications for national defence during the Thirty Years' War.

Christoph Gumpp's masterpiece, however, was the construction of the Comedihaus in the former ballroom. The oversized dimensions of the then trend-setting theatre, which was one of the first of its kind in Europe, not only allowed plays to be performed, but also water games with real ships and elaborate horse ballet performances. The Comedihaus was a total work of art in and of itself, which in its significance at the time can be compared to the festival theatre in Bayreuth in the 19th century or the Elbphilharmonie today.

His descendants Johann Martin Gumpp the Elder, Georg Anton Gumpp and Johann Martin Gumpp the Younger were responsible for many of the buildings that still characterise the townscape today. The Wilten collegiate church, the Mariahilfkirche, the Johanneskirche and the Spitalskirche were all designed by the Gumpps. In addition to designing churches and their work as court architects, they also made a name for themselves as planners of secular buildings. Many of Innsbruck's town houses and city palaces, such as the Taxispalais or the Altes Landhaus in Maria-Theresien-Straße, were designed by them. With the loss of the city's status as a royal seat, the magnificent large-scale commissions declined and with them the fame of the Gumpp family. Their former home is now home to the Munding confectionery in the historic city centre. In the Pradl district, Gumppstraße commemorates the Innsbruck dynasty of master builders.

Today, Innsbruck's city centre is characterised by buildings and monuments that commemorate the Habsburg family. For many centuries, the Habsburgs were a European ruling dynasty whose sphere of influence included a wide variety of territories. At the zenith of their power, they were the rulers of a "Reich, in dem die Sonne nie untergeht". Through wars and skilful marriage and power politics, they sat at the levers of power between South America and the Ukraine in various eras. Innsbruck was repeatedly the centre of power for this dynasty. The relationship was particularly intense between the 15th and 17th centuries. Due to its strategically favourable location between the Italian cities and German centres such as Augsburg and Regensburg, Innsbruck was given a special place in the empire at the latest after its elevation to a royal seat under Emperor Maximilian.

Tyrol was a province and, as a conservative region, usually favoured the dynasty. Even after its time as a royal seat, the birth of new children of the ruling family was celebrated with parades and processions, deaths were mourned in memorial masses and archdukes, kings and emperors were immortalised in public spaces with statues and pictures. The Habsburgs also valued the loyalty of their Alpine subjects to the Nibelung. In the 19th century, the Jesuit Hartmann Grisar wrote the following about the celebrations to mark the birth of Archduke Leopold in 1716:

„But what an imposing sight it was when, as night fell, the Abbot of Wilten held the final religious function in front of St Anne's Column, which had been consecrated by the blood of the country, surrounded by rows of students and the packed crowd; when, by the light of thousands of burning lights and torches, the whole town, together with the studying youth, the hope of the country, implored heaven for a blessing for the Emperor's newborn first son.“

 Its inaccessible location made it the perfect refuge in troubled and crisis-ridden times. Charles V (1500 - 1558) fled during a conflict with the Protestant Schmalkaldischen Bund to Innsbruck for some time. Ferdinand I (1793 - 1875) allowed his family to stay in Innsbruck, far away from the Ottoman threat in eastern Austria. Shortly before his coronation in the turbulent summer of the 1848 revolution, Franz Josef I enjoyed the seclusion of Innsbruck together with his brother Maximilian, who was later shot by insurgent nationalists as Emperor of Mexico. A plaque at the Alpengasthof Heiligwasser above Igls reminds us that the monarch spent the night here as part of his ascent of the Patscherkofel. Some of the Tyrolean sovereigns from the House of Habsburg had no special relationship with Tyrol, nor did they have any particular affection for this German land. Ferdinand I (1503 - 1564) was educated at the Spanish court. Maximilian's grandson Charles V had grown up in Burgundy. When he set foot on Spanish soil for the first time at the age of 17 to take over his mother Joan's inheritance of the kingdoms of Castile and Aragon, he did not speak a word of Spanish. When he was elected German Emperor in 1519, he did not speak a word of German.

Not all Habsburgs were happy to be „allowed“ to be in Innsbruck. Married princes and princesses such as Maximilian's second wife Bianca Maria Sforza or Ferdinand II's second wife Anna Caterina Gonzaga were stranded in the harsh, German-speaking mountains after the wedding without being asked. If you also imagine what a move and marriage from Italy to Tyrol to a foreign man meant for a teenager, you can imagine how difficult life was for the princesses. Until the 20th century, children of the aristocracy were primarily brought up to be politically married. There was no opposition to this. One might imagine courtly life to be ostentatious, but privacy was not provided for in all this luxury.

Innsbruck experienced its Habsburg heyday when the city was the main residence of the Tyrolean sovereigns. Ferdinand II, Maximilian III and Leopold V and their wives left their mark on the city during their reigns. When Sigismund Franz von Habsburg (1630 - 1665) died childless as the last sovereign prince, the title of residence city was also history and Tyrol was ruled by a governor. Tyrolean mining had lost its importance and did not require any special attention. Shortly afterwards, the Habsburgs lost their possessions in Western Europe along with Spain and Burgundy, which moved Innsbruck from the centre to the periphery of the empire. In the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy of the 19th century, Innsbruck was the western outpost of a huge empire that stretched as far as today's Ukraine. Franz Josef I (1830 - 1916) ruled over a multi-ethnic empire between 1848 and 1916. However, his neo-absolutist concept of rule was out of date. Although Austria had had a parliament and a constitution since 1867, the emperor regarded this government as "his". Ministers were responsible to the emperor, who was above the government. In the second half of the 19th century, the ailing empire collapsed. On 28 October 1918, the Republic of Czechoslovakia was proclaimed, and on 29 October, Croats, Slovenes and Serbs left the monarchy. The last Emperor Charles abdicated on 11 November. On 12 November, "Deutschösterreich zur demokratischen Republik, in der alle Gewalt vom Volke ausgeht“. The chapter of the Habsburgs was over.

Despite all the national, economic and democratic problems that existed in the multi-ethnic states that were subject to the Habsburgs in various compositions and forms, the subsequent nation states were sometimes much less successful in reconciling the interests of minorities and cultural differences within their territories. Since the eastward enlargement of the EU, the Habsburg monarchy has been seen by some well-meaning historians as a pre-modern predecessor of the European Union. Together with the Catholic Church, the Habsburgs shaped the public sphere through architecture, art and culture. Goldenes DachlThe Hofburg, the Triumphal Gate, Ambras Castle, the Leopold Fountain and many other buildings still remind us of the presence of the most important ruling dynasty in European history in Innsbruck.

Archduke Ferdinand II of Austria (1529 - 1595) is one of the most colourful figures in Tyrolean history. His father, Emperor Ferdinand I, gave him an excellent education. He grew up at the Spanish court of his uncle Emperor Charles V. The years in which Ferdinand received his schooling were the early years of Jesuit influence at the Habsburg courts. The young statesman was brought up entirely in the spirit of pious humanism. This was complemented by the customs of the Renaissance aristocracy. At a young age, he travelled through Italy and Burgundy and had become acquainted with a lifestyle at the wealthy courts there that had not yet established itself among the German aristocracy. Ferdinand was what today would be described as a globetrotter, a member of the educated elite or a cosmopolitan. He was considered intelligent, charming and artistic. Among his less eccentric contemporaries, Ferdinand enjoyed a reputation as an immoral and hedonistic libertine. Even during his lifetime, he was rumoured to have organised debauched and immoral orgies. 

Ferdinands Vater teilte sein Reich unter seinen Söhnen auf. Maximilian II., der zu Recht unter dem elterlichen Verdacht der Häresie und dem Anhängen protestantischer Lehren stand, erbte Ober- und Niederösterreich sowie Böhmen und Ungarn. Ferdinands jüngerer Bruder Karl regierte in Innerösterreich, also Kärnten, Steiermark und der Krain. Das Mittelkind erhielt Tirol, das damals bis ins Engadin reichte, und die zerstückelten habsburgischen Vorlande im Westen der zentraleuropäischen Besitzungen. Ferdinand übernahm das Land Tirol als Landesfürst in turbulenten Zeiten. Er hatte bereits in seiner Jugend einige Jahre in Innsbruck verbracht. Die Bergwerke in Schwaz begannen wegen des billigen Silbers aus Amerika unrentabel zu werden. Die Silberschwemme aus den habsburgischen Besitzungen in New Spain jenseits des Atlantiks führte zu einer Inflation. 

Diese finanziellen Probleme hielten Ferdinand aber nicht davon ab, persönliche und öffentliche Infrastruktur in Auftrag zu geben. Innsbruck profitierte wirtschaftlich und kulturell enorm davon, dass es nach Jahren ohne dezidiert einen Landesfürsten zu haben, nun wieder zum Zentrum eines Regenten wurde. Ferdinands erzherzogliche Präsenz lockte Aristokratie und Beamtenschaft nach den Jahrzehnten der Vernachlässigung nach Maximilians Ableben wieder an. In den späten 1560er Jahren war die Verwaltung wieder auf 1000 Personen angewachsen, die mit ihrem Geld die lokale Wirtschaft anfachten. Bäcker, Metzger und Gasthöfe florierten nach einigen kargeren Jahren wieder. Innsbruck besaß Ende des 16. Jahrhunderts im Vergleich mit anderen Städten überdurchschnittlich viele Gastwirte, die überdurchschnittlich gut an den Händlern, Gästen und Durchreisenden verdienten. Weinhäuser waren nicht nur Gastbetriebe, sondern auch Lager- und Handelsstätten. 

Die italienischen Städte Florenz, Venedig und Mailand waren stilbildend in Kultur, Kunst und Architektur. Der Tiroler Hof Ferdinands sollte ihnen in nichts nachstehen. Vorbei sollten die Zeiten sein, in denen Deutsche in den schöneren Städten südlich der Alpen als unzivilisiert, barbaric or even as Pigs bezeichnet wurden. Dazu ließ er Innsbruck im Geist der Renaissance umgestalten. Ganz im Trend der Zeit ahmte er die italienischen Adelshöfe nach. Hofarchitekt Giovanni Lucchese stand ihm dabei zur Seite. Einen ansehnlichen Teil seines Lebens verbrachte Ferdinand auf Schloss Ambras bei Innsbruck, wo er sich eine der kostbarsten Sammlungen von Kunstwerken und Rüstungen anlegte, die noch heute zu den wertvollsten der Welt ihrer Art zu zählen ist. Ferdinand verwandelte die Burg oberhalb des Dorfes Amras in einen modernen Hof. Seine Feste, Maskenbälle und Umzüge waren legendär. Während der Hochzeit eines Neffen ließ er 1800 Kälber und 130 Ochsen braten. Aus den Brunnen soll 10 Tage lang Wein statt Wasser geflossen sein. 

But Ambras Castle was not the end of Innsbruck's transformation. To the west of the city, an archway still reminds us of the Tiergartena hunting ground for Ferdinand, including a summer house also designed by Lucchese. In order for the prince to reach his weekend residence, a road was laid in the marshy Höttinger Au, which formed the basis for today's Kranebitter Allee. The Lusthaus was replaced in 1786 by what is now known as the Pulverturm The new building, which houses part of the sports science faculty of the University of Innsbruck, replaced the well-known building. The princely sport of hunting was followed in the former Lusthauswhich was the Powder Tower. In the city centre, he had the princely Comedihaus am heutigen Rennweg errichten. Um Innsbrucks Trinkwasserversorgung zu verbessern, wurde unter Ferdinand die Mühlauerbrücke errichtet, um eine Wasserleitung vom Mühlaubach ins Stadtgebiet zu verlegen. Die Jesuiten, kurz vor Ferdinands Amtsantritt in Innsbruck eingetroffen, um lästigen Reformatoren und Kirchenkritikern das Leben schwer zu machen und das Bildungswesen neu aufzustellen, erhielten in der Silbergasse eine neue Kirche. Zahlreiche Neubauten wie die Klöster der Jesuiten, der Franziskaner, Kapuziner und Servitinnen kurbelten das Handwerk und die Baubranche an. 

Die neuen Orden unterstützten Ferdinands Augenmerk auf die konfessionelle Ausrichtung seiner Schäfchen. In seiner 1573 erlassenen Tiroler Landesordnung schob er nicht nur Unzucht, Fluchen und Prostitution einen Riegel vor, sondern verpflichtete seine Untertanen zu einer gottesfürchtigen, also katholischen Lebensführung. Das „Prohibition of sorcery and disbelieving warfare" prohibited any deviation from the true faith on pain of imprisonment, corporal punishment and expropriation. Jews had to wear a clearly visible ring of yellow fabric on the left side of their chest at all times. At the same time, Ferdinand brought a Jewish financier to Innsbruck to handle the money transactions for the elaborate farm management. Samuel May and his family lived in the city as princely patronage Jews. Daniel Levi delighted Ferdinand with dancing and harp playing at the theatre and Elieser Lazarus looked after his health as court physician. 

Fleecing the population, living in splendour, tolerating Protestantism among his important advisors and at the same time fighting Protestantism among the people was no contradiction for the trained Renaissance prince. Already at the age of 15, he marched under his uncle Charles V in the Schmalkaldic War into battle against the enemies of the Roman Church. As a sovereign, he saw himself as Advocatus Ecclesiae (note: representative of the church) in a confessional absolutist sense, who was responsible for the salvation of his subjects. Coercive measures, the foundation of churches and monasteries such as the Franciscans and the Capuchins in Innsbruck, improved pastoral care and the staging of Jesuit theatre plays such as "The beheading of John" were the weapons of choice against Protestantism. Ferdinand's piety was not artificial, but like most of his contemporaries, he managed to adapt flexibly to the situation. 

Ferdinand's politics were suitably influenced by the Italian avant-garde of the time. Machiavelli wrote his work "Il Principe", which stated that rulers were allowed to do whatever was necessary for their success, even if they were incapable of being deposed. Ferdinand II attempted to do justice to this early absolutist style of leadership and issued his Tyrolean Provincial Code A modern set of legal rules by the standards of the time. For his subjects, this meant higher taxes on their earnings as well as extensive restrictions on mountain pastures, fishing and hunting rights. The miners, mining entrepreneurs and foreign trading companies with their offices in Innsbruck also drove up food prices. It could be summarised that Ferdinand enjoyed the exclusive pleasure of hunting on his estates, while his subjects lived at subsistence level due to increasing burdens, prices and game damage. 

Sein Beziehungsleben war für ein Mitglied der Hocharistokratie exzentrisch. In erster "halbwilder Ehe" war Ferdinand mit der Bürgerlichen Philippine Welser verheiratet. Nachdem Ehefrau #1 verstorben war, heiratete Ferdinand mit 53 Jahren die tiefgläubige Anna Caterina Gonzaga, eine erst 16jährige Prinzessin von Mantua. Große Zuneigung haben die beiden allem Anschein nach aber nicht zueinander empfunden, zumal Anna Caterina eine Nichte Ferdinands war. Die Habsburger waren beim Thema Hochzeit unter Verwandten weniger zimperlich als bei der Ehe eines Adeligen mit einer Bürgerlichen. Auch mit ihr konnte er allerdings "nur" drei Töchter zeugen. Seine letzte Ruhestätte fand Ferdinand in der Silbernen Kapelle bei seiner ersten Ehefrau Philippine Welser.