Leopoldstraße & Wiltener Platzl

Leopoldstrasse

Worth knowing

Wiltener Platzl, today a popular meeting place for Innsbruck’s youth and student population, has its roots—so to speak—in Roman antiquity. At the corner of Leopoldstraße and Dr.-Karl-von-Grabmayr-Straße, a mural dating from the 1950s commemorates the Roman military camp Veldidena, which was located directly at the access point to the Via Raetia leading toward the Brenner Pass. Four massive watchtowers and a wall more than two meters thick enclosed the fortress, in which over 500 soldiers were stationed. Along this traffic route, a new lifestyle made its way into the Inn Valley. Around the military camp, a trading outpost emerged: a village with an inn, weapon forges, brickworks, and various crafts. The land surrounding Veldidena had to be cleared for livestock. Equipment and clothing needed to be produced and repaired, and the soldiers had to be fed and entertained. Nor did the Bavarian settlement halt the growth of the village around Wilten Abbey, whose center lay near today’s Gasthof Haymon. According to the abbey’s land register, Wilten consisted of a large manor farm, two mills, twelve farmsteads, five feudal holdings, thirty small houses, and a brewhouse where beer was produced for the monastery’s cheerful daily life. Long before Innsbruck’s main traffic artery, the Südring, ruthlessly cut through the city from the 1960s onward, a kind of medieval “belt” developed along Leopoldstraße between the Graßmayr Bell Foundry and the Triumphal Arch. As early as the Middle Ages, a second local center emerged at the Lower Village Square. At the beginning of the 17th century, the village already counted 80 houses and a respectable population of 600. By 1775, Wilten had grown as far as today’s Leopoldstraße 22. Fifty-six townhouses and eighty agricultural holdings, along with five inns and seven noble residences, were home to around 1,000 people. While the abbey and the Leuthaus housed the administration of the village, parishes, and the monastery’s estates, economic and civic life unfolded here—where Wiltener Platzl and Kaiserschützenplatz are located today. Merchants and travelers came from the Brenner road to Innsbruck to pay their toll at the customs station near the Triumphal Arch. The farmhouses clustered around the village well gradually developed along this main thoroughfare into bourgeois residences, noble estates, workshops, and shops. The diversity of architectural styles still bears witness to the lively activity of past centuries. House Leopoldstraße 27 was home to a farrier by at least 1428. Together with number 25, it forms a fine example of residential buildings from the first half of the 19th century and of Biedermeier architecture. Not only did the economically difficult period following the Napoleonic Wars cause a slump in construction, but many of the rather unremarkable buildings from this era were later swept away by the fervor of Historicism after 1880. The core of the building opposite, at Leopoldstraße 30 and 32, can be traced back as far as the 12th century. Where a fashion boutique and apartments are located today, merchants once unloaded their goods at the Materialisten Ladele outside Innsbruck’s city limits in order to reduce the expected burden at the customs station. The square building at today’s Liebeneggstraße 2, decorated with Baroque murals, developed together with the Welsberg Schlössl at Leopoldstraße 35 in the 15th century from a farmstead into the Liebenegg estate. In 1601, both buildings were confirmed as a Freisitz, which also included a farmhouse with meadowland. In 1824, the Imperial-Royal gubernatorial registrar had the Liebenegg estate raised to four stories and converted into a rental building. The stately mansion at Leopoldstraße 22 is known as the Steidlevilla. Its core dates back to the 17th century, but in the 19th century it was transformed from a noble residence into a neoclassical villa, entirely in keeping with the bourgeois building boom of the time. It was named after Richard Steidle, co-founder of the League of Tyrolean Antisemites and leader of the Tyrolean Home Guard. During the political turmoil of the interwar period, a true crime story unfolded here in the form of a political assassination attempt: in 1933, Steidle was shot and seriously wounded in front of his villa by the German National Socialist Werner von Alversleben. A little further toward the city center stands one of Innsbruck’s most traditional inns. In 1901, the Trentino natives Heinrich and Maria Steneck opened the wine restaurant Steneck. The establishment was particularly popular among Innsbruck’s Italian-speaking population. Although the Innsbruck locals long regarded the Walschen with skepticism, the exceptionally good cuisine was nonetheless gladly accepted. Both the later Italian Prime Minister Alcide De Gasperi, as a young student at the University of Innsbruck, and Benito Mussolini are said to have enjoyed specialties and wine from their homeland here during their time in Innsbruck—before they went on to shape the fate of Europe. Generations of Innsbruck residents have enjoyed schnitzel, sausages, and fries at affordable prices at the Stenni, as the now timeworn establishment is affectionately known. When Heinrich Steneck passed away on December 22, 1953, the Innsbrucker Nachrichten took a touching farewell, on behalf of the entire city, from the founder of this Innsbruck institution.

Der steigende Verkehr seit den 1980ern nahm dem ehemaligen Dorfzentrum seinen Charme. Erst mit der jüngsten Neugestaltung des Wiltener Platzls has succeeded in making this historic square more attractive again. The modern village square with its fountain and seating area is a popular meeting place for residents and walkers alike. Between the two buildings of Ansitz Liebenegg is the modern building in which the Wilten neighbourhood meeting place, a service provided by the Innsbruck Social Services is housed here. The Leopoldstrasse and the Leopoldstraße continue their tradition as a commercial centre outside the city centre. Wiltener Platzl continues to this day. Unlike other main streets in the peripheral neighbourhoods, shops of all kinds flourish here. Boutiques, studios and other small shops manage to establish themselves in the latest hip neighbourhood. Grätzel ebenso wie alteingesessene und neue Lokale am Wiltener Platzl zu behaupten.

Innsbruck as part of the Imperium Romanum

In the year 15 before the Common Era, the field commanders Tiberius and Drusus, both stepsons of Emperor Augustus, reached the northern Alpine region with their armies. While the modern Italian today comes to Tyrol for Christmas markets in winter and more tolerable temperatures in summer, at that time it was the power ambitions of the rising superpower that made the legionaries lace up their sandals. Drusus marched from Verona to Trient, then followed the Adige River over the Brenner Pass into the area of present-day Innsbruck. From the Roman strategic perspective, the conquest was long overdue. Roman troops stationed in Gaul in the west and Illyricum on the Adriatic in the east were to be connected, raids by barbarian peoples into northern Italian settlements prevented, and routes for trade, travelers, and the military expanded and secured. Contrary to how it is often portrayed, the mountainous land was not terra incognita for the Romans. The Inn Valley had not become a permanently inhabited zone only with the climatic warming known as the Roman Climate Optimum. Trade and cultural exchange extending as far as central Italy can be demonstrated through archaeological finds. Partly multi-storey houses with stone foundations, clustered in nucleated villages, similar linguistic idioms, burnt-offering sites such as the Goldbühel in Igls, and ceramic finds point to a shared cultural background with the Etruscans. Finds indicate economic exchange between ethnic groups and communities stretching from Vorarlberg through the Lake Garda region to Istria, even though the Romans liked to depict the militarily inferior Alpine inhabitants as wild barbarians. The conquered peoples north of the main Alpine ridge were referred to by Greek and Roman authors using the rather vague collective term “Raeti.” Today, research understands the Raeti to have been the inhabitants of Tyrol, the Lower Engadine, and Trentino—the area of the Fritzens–Sanzeno culture, named after its major archaeological sites. The tribe living in the area of present-day Innsbruck was given the name Breones by the new rulers. The settlements of the Breonic population were located in mid-mountain elevations and on higher alluvial fans such as Amras and Wilten, slightly above the Inn Valley, which at the time was a floodplain and marshland. Whether the Romans destroyed settlements and cult sites between Zirl and Wattens during their campaign of conquest is unclear. What is certain is that the burnt-offering site on the Goldbühel in Igls was no longer used after the year 15. There are also no precise sources regarding how the conquerors treated the subdued population.

Roman military power was followed by Roman administration and the legal system. Already under Augustus’ successor Tiberius, an administrative structure was rolled out and the new territory integrated into the state system. What is now Tyrol was divided along the Ziller River. The area east of the Ziller became part of the province of Noricum, while Innsbruck became part of the province Raetia et Vindelicia. This province extended from present-day central Switzerland with the Gotthard massif in the west to the Alpine foreland north of Lake Constance, from the Brenner Pass in the south to the Ziller River in the east. Remarkably, the Ziller as a boundary still persists today in ecclesiastical terms: the area east of the Ziller belongs to the Diocese of Salzburg, while Tyrol west of the Ziller is part of the Diocese of Innsbruck. It likely did not take long for the former barbarians to assimilate into Roman culture. While the Romans did not bring chewing gum, vinyl records, or silk stockings for their new subjects—as would be the case nearly 2,000 years later—the Roman lifestyle certainly introduced new possibilities. The route between what is now the Seefeld Saddle and the Brenner Pass had existed for centuries but was unsuitable for trade or troop movements. In the 3rd century CE, the Brenner route was expanded into a via publica. Slightly over five meters wide, it ran from the Brenner Pass to the Ferrariwiese above Wilten, over Mount Isel, to what is today the Gasthaus Haymon, where the Roman military camp Veldidena was located. As the Via Raetia, this road competed with the Via Claudia Augusta, which connected Italy and Bavaria via the Reschen and Fern passes. For poorly equipped merchant caravans, the Brenner route was in parts too steep to become the main route, but through the road network Veldidena was now integrated into an economic and intellectual space stretching from Britain through the Baltic region to North Africa. At intervals of 20 to 40 kilometers, way stations (mansiones) with accommodation, food, and stables were established. In Sterzing, at the Brenner, in Matrei, and in Innsbruck, villages developed around these Roman mansiones, where Roman culture gradually took hold. The local population began to exploit their role as a transit and supply region. Along the trade routes, smithies emerged as an early form of metalworking industry, as well as taverns and inns. With an imperial edict in 212 CE, the Breonic population became full Roman citizens, with all associated rights and obligations. Military service in the Roman army offered opportunities for social advancement. After Christianity became the state religion in the 4th century, the Tyrolean region was also Christianized, starting from the Diocese of Brixen. By that time, cultural achievements such as the imperial coinage system, glass and brick production, the Latin language, bathhouses, thermal baths, schools, and wine had long since become standard. There was probably no Breonic People’s Front, but the famous quote from Life of Brian could just as well have been uttered in pre-Christian Innsbruck:

"Apart from medicine, sanitation, education, wine, public order, irrigation, roads, water treatment and public health insurance, what, I ask you, have the Romans ever done for us?"

Very little of Roman Innsbruck remains visible in the modern cityscape. Exhibits can be seen at the Tyrolean State Museum Ferdinandeum. Various excavation projects around the present-day Wilten Abbey uncovered graves and remains such as walls, coins, bricks, and everyday objects from the Roman period in Innsbruck. The core of the Leuthaus next to the abbey dates back to Roman times. One of the Roman milestones from the former main route over the Brenner can be seen in Wiesengasse near the Tivoli Stadium. Even less has survived of the Breones themselves. Near Lake Lans, visitors can explore remains of Raetian houses, and just below Mount Isel, the former cult site Goldbühel welcomes interested visitors.

Innsbruck's industrial revolutions

Innsbruck has always seen itself primarily as a city of trade, tourism, and academia. In reality, however, manufacturing and productive industries have played a significant role in its history. As early as the fifteenth century, a proto‑industrial form of production began to emerge from traditional crafts. Metalworking flourished in the booming residential city, driven by the construction boom and the demand for weapons and armour. A combination of factors made this possible: the city’s favourable transport connections, the availability of water power, Innsbruck’s political rise, the craftsmanship of its artisans, and access to capital under Maximilian all contributed to the development of necessary infrastructure. Bell founders and armaments manufacturers such as the Löffler family established workshops in Hötting, Mühlau, and Dreiheiligen that ranked among the leading enterprises of their time in Europe. Along the Sill Canal, mills and workshops harnessed water power as an energy source. Powder mills and silver smelting works were located in Silbergasse, today’s Universitätsstraße. In what is now Adamgasse, close to the city, a munitions factory once stood, which exploded in 1636.

The wealth generated by metalworking stimulated other sectors of the economy. By the early seventeenth century, around 270 businesses were operating in Innsbruck, providing employment for masters, journeymen, and apprentices. Although most of the population was still engaged in administration, trade and craft industries—and the money they generated—began to attract a new social stratum. This led to a redistribution within the city. Citizens and businesses gradually displaced officials and members of the aristocracy from the Neustadt. Many of the Baroque palazzi that now line Maria‑Theresien‑Straße were built during this period, while districts such as Dreiheiligen and St. Nikolaus developed into industrial and working‑class quarters. In addition to metalworking in the Silbergasse area, tanners, carpenters, wagon makers, builders, stonemasons, and other crafts associated with early industrialisation settled here.

Industrial development reshaped not only the social structure through the influx of new workers and their families, but also the physical appearance of Innsbruck. Workers, unlike peasants, were not subjects bound to a feudal lord, even if they remained subordinate to the strict authority of their employers. Entrepreneurs were not of noble birth, yet often possessed greater financial resources than the aristocracy. Traditional hierarchies still existed but began to show signs of strain. The new bourgeoisie introduced new fashions and dressed differently. Capital from outside flowed into the city. Housing and churches were built for the incoming population. The working‑class districts outside the city walls were viewed with suspicion by long‑time residents, not least because overcrowded conditions were believed to foster outbreaks of plague. Large workshops altered both the smell and soundscape of the city. Industrial sites were noisy, and smoke from furnaces polluted the air. Innsbruck had evolved from a small settlement at the Inn Bridge into a proto‑industrial town.

Growth was interrupted for several decades at the end of the eighteenth century by the Napoleonic Wars. Compared to other parts of Europe, the second wave of industrialisation arrived relatively late in Innsbruck. One reason was the delayed development of a functioning banking system. For devout Catholics, bankers were still regarded as “usurers and moneylenders,” and financial dealings were considered morally questionable. Without access to credit, however, large enterprises could not be established. Although the Tyrolean provincial government had founded the Banko as early as 1715 and a private bank operated in Herzog‑Friedrich‑Straße, it was only with the establishment of a branch of the savings bank that people no longer had to keep their money hidden at home. From around 1850 onwards, credit became available, enabling the creation of larger local enterprises. Traditional crafts—both urban guild-based workshops and seasonal rural production—came under pressure from modern industrial manufacturing. Modern factories emerged in St. Nikolaus, Wilten, Mühlau, and Pradl along the Mühlbach and Sill Canal. Many innovative entrepreneurs came from outside Innsbruck. In what is now Innstraße 23, Peter Walde, who had moved from Lusatia to Innsbruck, founded a business in 1777 producing goods derived from fats, such as tallow candles and soap. Eight generations later, Walde remains one of Austria’s oldest family businesses, and its historic headquarters—with its Gothic vaulted ceilings—still sells soaps and candles today. Franz Josef Adam, originally from the Vinschgau, established what became the city’s largest brewery in a former aristocratic residence. In 1838, the spinning machine arrived in Pradl via the Dornbirn firm Herrburger & Rhomberg, bringing textile production into the region. The company had acquired land along the Sill floodplain, where water power provided ideal conditions for operating heavy machinery. Alongside wool, cotton was now also processed.

As 400 years earlier, the Second Industrial Revolution fundamentally transformed both the city and the daily lives of its inhabitants. Districts such as Mühlau, Pradl, and Wilten expanded rapidly. Factories were often located directly within residential areas. Around 1900, more than twenty enterprises were still using the Sill Canal. The Haidmühle in Salurnerstraße operated from 1315 to 1907. A textile factory in Dreiheiligenstraße was also powered by the canal. Noise and emissions from machinery placed heavy burdens on residents, as described in a newspaper article from 1912:

“The installation of an explosion engine in the Hibler fig‑coffee factory near the main railway station has caused outrage among the residents of the surrounding district. The noise produced by this machine throughout most of the day is extremely disturbing and diminishes the value of nearby dwellings. The once highly sought-after garden rooms in hotels on Bahnhofplatz are now scarcely rentable. Even worse than the noise, however, is the smoke and stench produced by the new machine…”

Aristocrats who had relied too long on inherited wealth were increasingly forced to sell their estates to the rising bourgeoisie. For example, Palais Sarnthein—originally built in 1689—was later used by a weapons manufacturer and merchant, Johann Peterlongo. Some members of the aristocracy adapted successfully, investing their resources in industrial ventures. The growing demand for labour was met by former farmhands and landless peasants. While wealthy entrepreneurs built villas in Wilten, Pradl, and Saggen, and middle-class employees occupied urban housing, workers were often accommodated in dormitories or mass housing. Twelve-hour shifts in cramped, noisy, and polluted conditions placed heavy demands on labourers. Child labour was not restricted until the 1840s, and women earned only a fraction of men’s wages. Workers were often dependent on company-owned housing and lacked legal protections. Social security systems did not yet exist; those unable to work depended on charitable support from their home communities. It should be noted that these harsh conditions were not entirely new but evolved from rural life, where inequality, child labour, and precarious work had been common.

However, industrialisation did not only affect everyday material life. Innsbruck experienced the kind of gentrification that can be observed today in trendy urban neighbourhoods such as Prenzlauer Berg in Berlin. The change from the rural life of the village to the city involved more than just a change of location. In one of his texts, the Innsbruck writer Josef Leitgeb tells us how people experienced the urbanisation of what was once a rural area: 

“…a great many strangers, poorly dressed, crowded into growing housing blocks, filling the streets morning, noon, and evening as they went to and from work… faces pale and prematurely aged, lacking individuality in posture, speech, and clothing—no longer individuals, but a uniform, endlessly repeatable urban working class… The railway station and the gasworks seemed to be the core of this new and profoundly alien landscape.”

After 1848, many Innsbruck residents experienced a process of “bourgeoisification.” Stories of upward mobility through diligence, talent, and opportunity became more common. Notable examples still in existence include the Tyrolean glass painting workshop, the Hörtnagl food business, and the Walde soap factory. Successful entrepreneurs came to occupy roles once held by the landed nobility, forming вместе with academics a new influential social class. Even workers experienced a degree of bourgeois emancipation. Unlike peasants bound to feudal lords, they now received wages instead of subsistence and gained some autonomy over their private lives. Together with the many academics, they formed a new social class that increasingly gained political influence. As early as 1851, Beda Weber remarked approvingly: “Their social circles are unforced; one already senses something distinctly metropolitan, something not easily found elsewhere in Tyrol.”

The workers also became bourgeois. While the landlord in the countryside was still master of the private lives of his farmhands and maidservants and was able to determine their lifestyle up to and including sexuality via the release for marriage, the labourers were now at least somewhat freer individually. They were poorly paid, but at least they now received their own wages instead of board and lodging and were able to organise their private affairs for themselves without the landlord's guardianship. 

However, the downside of this newly gained autonomy became particularly apparent in the early decades of industrialisation. There was little state infrastructure for healthcare or family support. Health insurance, pensions, retirement homes, and childcare facilities did not yet exist; previously, these functions had largely been fulfilled within extended rural families. In working-class districts, unsupervised children were a common sight during the day—especially the youngest, who were not yet subject to compulsory schooling. In response, a women’s association was founded in 1834 following an appeal by the Tyrolean provincial governor. It established childcare institutions in working-class districts such as St. Nikolaus, Dreiheiligen, and Angerzell (today’s Museumstraße). Their aim was not only to keep children off the streets and provide them with food and clothing, but also to instill manners, modest behaviour, and moral discipline. Under strict supervision, caretakers ensured “cleanliness, order, and obedience,” thereby providing at least a basic level of care. The former childcare institution in Paul‑Hofhaimer‑Gasse behind the Ferdinandeum still exists today. The neoclassical building now houses a Caritas integration kindergarten and a daycare center for employees of the State of Tyrol.

Innsbruck never became a traditional industrial working‑class city. Even so, a significant labour movement—such as that found in Vienna—never truly developed in Tyrol. While there were Social Democrats and a small number of Communists, the working class remained too small to exert substantial political influence. May Day marches, for example, are attended by many primarily for inexpensive food and free beer rather than political engagement. More broadly, there are few memorial sites dedicated to industrialisation and the achievements of the working class. Only in places such as St.-Nikolaus-Gasse or in some tenement buildings in Wilten and Pradl have structures survived that offer a glimpse into the everyday life of Innsbruck’s workers. 

The Wallschen and the Fatti di Innsbruck

Prejudice and racism toward immigrants were and are common practice in Innsbruck, as in all societies. Whether Syrian refugees since 2015 or Turkish guest workers in the 1970s and 80s, what is foreign generally evokes little goodwill among the average Tyrolean. Today, Italy may be the favorite travel destination of Innsbruck’s residents and pizzerias an integral part of everyday gastronomy, but for a long time our southern neighbors were the group viewed with the greatest suspicion. What Jews and “brick-Bohemians” were to Viennese around 1900, “Walsche” were to Tyroleans. Aversion toward Italians in Innsbruck can look back on a long tradition. Although Italy did not yet exist as an independent state, the political landscape was shaped by many small counties, city-states, and principalities between Lake Garda and Sicily. Linguistically and culturally, the individual regions also differed from one another. Nevertheless, over time people began to see themselves as Italians and were also perceived as such abroad. Most of those with whom Innsbruck’s residents came into contact belonged to the upper class, which automatically generated a certain level of resentment. During the Middle Ages and the early modern period, they lived in Innsbruck as members of the administrative apparatus, the court, as bankers, wholesale merchants, or spouses of various territorial princes. The hostility between Italians and Germans was mutual. Each side regarded the other, depending on perspective, as dishonorable, unreliable, arrogant, vain, morally corrupt, and lazy, or conversely as uncivilized, barbaric, uneducated, and porcs.

With the wars between 1848 and 1866, hatred toward everything Italian reached a new peak in the “Holy Land of Tyrol,” although many “Walsche” served in the imperial and royal army and much of the rural population among the Italian-speaking Tyroleans remained loyal to the monarchy. Italians—especially Garibaldi’s troops—were seen as godless agitators and republicans and were denounced from church pulpits between Kufstein and Riva del Garda, both in Italian and in German. The Tyrolean press played a major role in the conflict. After the liberalization of the press in 1867, newspapers achieved a new level of reach. What social media contributes to social division today was in many ways performed by newspapers at that time. Conservatives, Catholics, Greater Germans, liberals, and socialists each had their own press organs, and loyal readers of these hardly neutral publications lived within their own opinion bubbles. The Innsbrucker Nachrichten, with a circulation of about 15,000 copies, was the medium with the widest reach in Tyrol around the turn of the century. Although it did not have an explicitly stated political alignment, it was considered to be Greater German-liberal in outlook. On the Italian side, Cesare Battisti (1875–1916), who was executed by the Austrian military during the war for high treason by hanging, stood out in particular. The publicist and politician from Trento had initially begun studying at the German-speaking university in Vienna, but later transferred to the University of Florence. With a sharp pen, he repeatedly fueled the conflict of nationalities within the borders of the province in the Italian newspapers Il Popolo and L’Avvenire. Owing to his combination of socialist convictions and Italian patriotism, he was regarded by many Tyroleans as the number one enemy of the state and a traitor.

Associations also played a crucial role in the hardening of fronts. In 1867, not only press law but also the law governing associations was liberalized, triggering a veritable boom in new foundations. Sports clubs, gymnastics societies, theater groups, marksmen’s associations, or the Innsbrucker Liedertafel often served not only for leisure but functioned as political pre-organizations. Members met in their own venues and regularly organized club evenings, often also open to the public. Particularly politically active and extreme in their views were the student fraternities. The young men who gathered there came from the upper bourgeoisie or the aristocracy and were accustomed both to giving orders and to bearing arms. One third of the students in Innsbruck belonged to a fraternity, nearly half of them with a German nationalist orientation. Unlike today, it was not unusual for them to appear in public in full regalia—in their colors, that is, in uniform complete with saber, beret, and sash—often also armed with walking sticks and revolvers. Opposing them were the Italian-speaking students, who were inferior not only in numbers but also in organization. After the loss of Padua, Tyroleans of Italian descent no longer had the possibility of completing their studies in their mother tongue within the country; many therefore oriented themselves toward Innsbruck, where they were met with little sympathy. One of the greatest political points of contention between Italian- and German-speaking students was the establishment of an Italian university. The discussion about whether such a university should be located in Trieste (the preferred location of Italian-speaking representatives), Innsbruck, Trento, or Rovereto dragged on for years. Although attending university was essentially a matter for a small elite, irredentist and anti-Austrian Tyrolean deputies from the Trentino repeatedly succeeded in emotionally charging the issue as a symbol of the desired autonomy, given that, since 1867, all language groups within the monarchy were legally to be treated equally. German nationalist politicians such as Innsbruck’s mayor Wilhelm Greil—who was repeatedly reprimanded by the imperial governor of Tyrol for his improper conduct toward the Italian population—used the emotions surrounding the issue to stir up fears of foreign infiltration. Alongside ethnic and racist resentments toward their southern neighbors, conservatives in particular were also influenced by fear of figures such as Cesare Battisti, who as a socialist was seen as embodying absolute evil.

How great the supposed danger of an “Italianization” of Innsbruck by students from Trentino actually was is illustrated by demographic data. Even at that time, facts in public discourse were often replaced by gut feeling and racially motivated populism. After the incorporation of Pradl and Wilten in 1904, Innsbruck had just over 50,000 inhabitants. The proportion of students, at a little over 1,000, was under 2%. Of the roughly 3,000 people of Italian origin—most of them “Welsch Tyroleans” from the Trentino—just over 100 were enrolled at the university. The majority of the “Walsche” consisted of workers, innkeepers, traders, and soldiers. Many had long lived in and around Innsbruck. In somewhat more affordable Wilten, something akin to a “Little Italy” had emerged. Anton Gutmann sold Italian wines in his cellar cooperative “Riva” at Leopoldstraße 30, and across the street one could eat well and cheaply at the Steneck inn. Most of the immigrants, as subjects of the monarchy, spoke excellent German; only a small proportion came from Dalmatia or Trieste and were in fact foreign-language speakers. The differences were of a socio-cultural nature. There were their own associations such as the Club Ciclistico and the Unione Ginnastica, socialist-oriented workers’ and consumer organizations, music societies, and student fraternities.

Although students also made up only a small proportion among Italians, they and the demand for an institute with Italian as the language of instruction and examination received disproportionate attention. After considerable back and forth, it was decided in September 1904 to establish a provisional faculty of law in Innsbruck. This was intended to separate the students without alienating either group. From the outset, however, the project was ill-fated. No one wanted to rent the university the necessary premises. Eventually, the enterprising builder Anton Fritz made an apartment in one of his rental buildings at Liebeneggstraße 8 available. At the inaugural lecture and the festive evening event at the “Gasthaus zum Weißen Kreuz” on 3 November, prominent figures such as Battisti and the later Italian prime minister Alcide De Gasperi were present. As the evening progressed, the mood became increasingly exuberant. When jeering slogans such as “Porchi tedeschi” and “Abbasso Austria” (note: “German pigs” and “Down with Austria”) were shouted, the situation escalated. A crowd of German-speaking students armed with sticks, knives, and revolvers besieged the Weißes Kreuz, in which the Italians—also largely armed—had barricaded themselves. A unit of Kaiserjäger succeeded in dispersing the initial tumult; several Italians were arrested. In the process, the painter August Pezzey (1875–1904) was mistakenly fatally wounded by a bayonet thrust from an overly nervous soldier.

Following the night’s events, the Innsbrucker Nachrichten appeared on November 4 with the headline: “German blood shed!” The reporter present wrote of 100 to 200 revolver shots fired by the Italians at the “crowd of German students,” and of Pezzey’s death. The news of what had happened triggered a wave of acts of revenge and violence. As in any uprising, onlookers and rioters joined the politically motivated participants, people who enjoyed overstepping boundaries in the anonymity of the crowd without holding a genuine political conviction. While the Italians taken into custody sang the martial Inno di Garibaldi in the overcrowded city prison, serious riots broke out in the city against Italian establishments and businesses. The premises of the Weißes Kreuz were completely devastated in a display of loyalty to the monarchy, except for a portrait of Emperor Franz Joseph. Rioters threw stones at the residence of the already unpopular governor in Palais Trapp, because his wife had Italian roots. The building on Liebeneggstraße made available to the university by Anton Fritz was destroyed, as was his private residence.

Once the initial turmoil had subsided, a process of myth-making quickly began around the events. August Pezzey, who had died amid the chaos and came from a Ladin family, was declared a “German hero” in a wave of nationalist fervor by politicians and the press. He was given an honorary grave at the Innsbruck West Cemetery. At his funeral, attended by thousands of mourners, Mayor Greil delivered a pathos-laden speech:

"...A gloriously beautiful death was granted to you on the field of honour for the German people... In the fight against impudent acts of violence you breathed your last as a martyr for the German cause..."

Reports of the Fatti di Innsbruck reached the international press and contributed significantly to the resignation of the Austrian Minister-President Ernest von Koerber. Depending on the medium, Italians were portrayed either as dishonorable bandits or as courageous national heroes, while Austrians were depicted as pangermanist barbarians or as a bulwark against the “Welsch.” On 17 November, just two weeks after its ceremonial opening, the Italian faculty in Innsbruck was dissolved again. A university of their own remained denied to this linguistic group within Austria-Hungary until the end of the monarchy in 1918. The long tradition of viewing Italians as dishonorable and lazy was further intensified by Italy’s entry into the war in 1915 on the side of France and England. To this day, many Tyroleans continue to maintain negative prejudices toward their southern neighbors with great persistence.

Art in architecture: the post-war period in Innsbruck

As after World War I, housing shortages were one of the most pressing problems after 1945. Innsbruck had suffered heavy damage during air raids, and money for new construction was scarce. When the first housing complexes were built in the 1950s, thrift was the order of the day. Many of the buildings erected from the 1950s onward may be architecturally unattractive, but they contain interesting artworks. From 1949 onward, Austria implemented the “Art in Architecture” project (Kunst am Bau). For state-funded construction projects, 2% of total expenditures were to be allocated to artistic design. The implementation of building regulations and thus the management of budgets was, as then and now, the responsibility of the federal states. Through these public commissions, artists were to be financially supported. In the lean post-war years, even successful and practically minded artists such as Oswald Haller (1908–1981), who earned money with commercial graphics and tourism posters, faced difficulties. The idea first appeared in 1919 in the Weimar Republic and was continued by the National Socialists from 1934 onward. Austria revived Kunst am Bau after the war to shape public spaces during reconstruction. The public sector, which replaced aristocracy and bourgeoisie as builders of previous centuries, was under massive financial pressure. Nevertheless, the primarily functional housing projects were not to appear entirely without ornamentation. Tyrolean artists entrusted with designing the artworks were selected through public competitions. The most famous among them was Max Weiler, perhaps the most prominent artist in post-war Tyrol, responsible for the frescoes in the Theresienkirche on the Hungerburg in Innsbruck. Other notable names include Helmut Rehm (1911–1991), Walter Honeder (1906–2006), Fritz Berger (1916–2002), and Emmerich Kerle (1916–2010). Many of these artists were shaped not only by the Federal Trade School in Innsbruck (today’s HTL) and the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna but also by the collective experience of National Socialism and the war. Fritz Berger had lost his right arm and an eye and had to learn to work with his left hand. Kerle served in Finland as a war painter and was taught at the Academy by Josef Müllner, an artist who entered art history with busts of Adolf Hitler, Siegfried from the Nibelungen saga, and the still controversial Karl Lueger monument in Vienna. Like much of the Tyrolean population, these artists—as well as politicians and officials—wanted peace and quiet after the harsh and painful war years, to let the grass grow over the events of the past decades. The works created under Kunst am Bau reflect this attitude toward a new moral order. It was the first time abstract, formless art entered Innsbruck’s public space, albeit only in an uncritical context. Fairy tales, legends, and religious symbols were popular motifs immortalized in sgraffitos, mosaics, murals, and statues. One could speak of a kind of second wave of Biedermeier art, symbolizing the petty-bourgeois lifestyle of people after the war. Art was also intended to create a new awareness and image of what was considered typically Austrian. As late as 1955, every second Austrian still regarded themselves as German. The various motifs depict leisure activities, clothing styles, and notions of social order and norms of the post-war era. Women were often shown in traditional dress and dirndls, men in lederhosen. Conservative ideals of gender roles were reflected in the art: hardworking fathers, dutiful wives caring for home and hearth, and children diligently learning at school were the ideal image well into the 1970s—a life like in a Peter Alexander film. Those who walk attentively through the city will find many of these still-visible artworks on houses in Pradl and Wilten. The mix of unremarkable architecture and contemporary artworks from the often-suppressed, long-idealized post-war era is worth seeing. Particularly beautiful examples can be found on façades in Pacherstraße, Hunoldstraße, Ing.-Thommenstraße, Innrain, at the Landesberufsschule Mandelsbergerstraße, or in the courtyard between Landhausplatz and Maria-Theresien-Straße.

The Bocksiedlung and Austrofascism

Political violence, alongside hunger and a severe housing shortage, shaped Austria throughout the 1920s and 1930s. The two major mass parties of the young republic, the Social Democrats and the Christian Socials, regarded each other with hostility. Both parties established paramilitary organizations to enforce their political agendas on the streets if necessary. The Republikanischer Schutzbund on the Social Democratic side and various Christian Social or even monarchist-oriented Heimwehr groups, which for simplicity may be grouped under this collective term, watched one another like opposing sides in a civil war. Many politicians and functionaries on both sides had fought on the front during the war and had become deeply militarized as a result. The Tyrolean Heimwehr enjoyed superior infrastructure and political connections due to the support of the Catholic Church. On November 12, 1928, the tenth anniversary of the founding of the Republic, 18,000 Heimwehr members marched through the city in the first nationwide Heimwehr rally, demonstrating their strength on what was the most important holiday for Austrian Social Democrats. From 1930 onward, the Nazi Party (NSDAP) also became increasingly visible in public life. It found supporters particularly among students and disillusioned young workers. By 1932, the party already had 2,500 members in Innsbruck. Violent clashes between the hostile political factions occurred repeatedly. The most notorious of these became known as the Hötting Hall Battle (Höttinger Saalschlacht) of May 27, 1932. At that time, Hötting was still independent and not yet part of Innsbruck. The community was inhabited mainly by workers. In this “red” stronghold of Tyrol, National Socialists planned a rally at the Goldener Bär Inn, a traditional meeting place of Social Democrats. This provocation escalated into a fight that left more than thirty people injured and one National Socialist dead. The violence spread across the entire city; even in the hospital, the injured continued fighting each other. Only the intervention of the gendarmerie and the army succeeded in separating the opposing sides.

Nach diesen bürgerkriegsähnlichen Jahren setzten sich 1933 die Christlichsozialen unter Kanzler Engelbert Dollfuß (1892 – 1934) durch. Sein Ziel war die Errichtung des sogenannten Österreichischen Ständestaats, heute besser bekannt unter dem Begriff Austrofaschismus. Der gesamte Staatsapparat wurde analog zum Faschismus Mussolinis in Italien unter der Vaterländischen Front geeint werden: Antisozialistisch, autoritär, konservativ im Gesellschaftsbild, antidemokratisch, antisemitisch und militarisiert. Nicht wenige Menschen waren froh, dass das Parlament und der Mehrparteienstaat durch einen starken Mann ersetzt wurde, der Ruhe und Ordnung versprach. In Innsbruck kam es während dieses in vielen Städten Österreichs teils blutigen Umsturzes zu keinen nennenswerten Kampfhandlungen. Am 15. März wurde das Parteihaus der Sozialdemokratischen Arbeiterpartei Tirol im Hotel Sonne geräumt. Der Anführer des Republikanischen Schutzbundes Gustav Kuprian wurde wegen Hochverrat festgenommen und die einzelnen Gruppen des Schutzbundes entwaffnet. Die Tiroler Wochenzeitung wurde als Parteiorgan gegründet. Der Innsbrucker Gemeinderat wurde von 40 auf 28 Mitglieder verkleinert. Anstatt durch freie Wahlen wurden sie vom Landeshauptmann ernannt. Die bis dato stark vertretenen Sozialdemokraten wurden aus der Stadtregierung entfernt. Dollfuß war in Tirol überaus populär, wie Aufnahmen des vollen Platzes vor der Hofburg während einer seiner Ansprachen aus dem Jahr 1933 zeigen. Seine Politik war das, was der Habsburgermonarchie am nächsten kam. Bereits 1931 hatten sich einige Tiroler Bürgermeister zusammengeschlossen, um das Einreiseverbot für die Habsburger aufheben zu lassen. Diese Politik wurde von der katholischen Kirche unterstützt und schaffte es bis in die Verfassung von 1934: „Im Namen Gottes, des Allmächtigen, von dem alles Recht ausgeht, erhält das österreichische Volk für seinen christlichen, deutschen Bundesstaat auf ständischer Grundlage diese Verfassung.“ Die Bindung an die Kirche verschaffte der Regierung Zugriff auf Infrastruktur, Presseorgane und Vorfeldorganisationen. Gegen die verhassten Sozialisten ging die Vaterländische Front mit ihren paramilitärischen Einheiten hart vor. Man schreckte nicht vor Unterdrückung und Gewalttaten gegen Leib und Leben sowie Einrichtungen der politischen Gegnerschaft zurück. Mutmaßliche und echte Sozialisten, Sozialdemokraten, Gewerkschafter und Kommunisten wurden immer wieder verhaftet. Die Presse war politisch gesteuert und zensuriert, die Artikel glorifizierten das ländliche Leben in seiner Idylle. Kinderreiche Familien wurden finanziell unterstützt. Schulen wurden nach Geschlechtern getrennt und auch die Lehrpläne unterschieden sich, Hausarbeit für die Mädchen, vormilitärische Erziehung für die Buben. Die Kulturpolitik grenzte sich bewusst vom nationalsozialistischen, antiklerikalen Nachbarn im Norden ab. Theater und Musik sollten Österreich als den „besseren und zivilisierteren“ deutschen Staat zeigen.

The Austrofascism sorgte aber, wenn überhaupt, nur kurz für Ruhe und Ordnung. Am 25. Juli 1934 kam es in Wien zu einem Putschversuch der verbotenen Nationalsozialisten, bei dem Kanzler Dollfuß ums Leben kam. Hitler, der die Anschläge nicht angeordnet hatte, distanzierte sich zunächst offiziell vom Geschehenen, was den geplanten Umsturz im Keim erstickte. Auch in Innsbruck kam es zu einem Umsturzversuch. Beim Versuch einer Gruppe von Nationalsozialisten die Kontrolle über die Stadt zu gelangen, wurde in der Herrengasse ein Polizist erschossen. In Innsbruck wurde im Gedenken an den zum Märtyrer stilisierten ermordeten Bundeskanzler auf „Verfügung des Regierungskommissärs der Landeshauptstadt Tirols“ der Platz vor dem Theater, wo er sich noch zwei Wochen zuvor mit Richard Steidl getroffen hatte, zum Dollfußplatz umgetauft. Sein Nachfolger an der Staatsspitze war mit Kurt Schuschnigg (1897 – 1977) ein gebürtiger Tiroler. Der Kriegsveteran aus altösterreichischem Kleinadel war Mitglied der Innsbrucker Studentenverbindung Austria. 1930 hatte der als Rechtsanwalt tätige Parlamentarier Schuschnigg die Ostmärkische Sturmschar gegründet, eine katholisch und antisemitisch geprägte paramilitärische Einheit, die das Gegengewicht zu den radikaleren Heimwehrgruppen bildeten. Als Unterrichtsminister und Justizminister war er maßgeblich für den gesellschaftlichen Rechtsruck im Ständestaat mitverantwortlich, unter anderem führte er die Todesstrafe wieder ein. Für die Innsbrucker Bevölkerung änderte sich unter dem neuen Kanzler wenig an der Alltagsmisere. Wirtschaftlich konnte der Ständestaat das Ruder in den 1930er Jahren nicht herumreißen. Die staatlichen Investitionen in große Infrastrukturprojekte kamen nach der Wirtschaftskrise 1931 zum Erliegen. Die Arbeitslosenquote lag 1933 bei 25%. Die Einschränkung der sozialen Fürsorge, die zu Beginn der First Republick was introduced had dramatic effects. The long-term unemployed were excluded from receiving social benefits as "Discontinued“ ausgeschlossen. Die Armut ließ die Kriminalitätsrate ansteigen, Überfälle, Raube und Diebstähle waren an der Tagesordnung. Ein besonderes Problem war wie schon in den Jahrzehnten zuvor die Wohnsituation. Trotz der Bemühungen seitens der Stadt modernen Wohnraum zu schaffen, hausten noch immer viele Innsbrucker in Bruchbuden. Badezimmer oder ein Schlafraum pro Person war die Ausnahme. Seit dem großen Wachstum Innsbrucks ab den 1880er Jahren war die Wohnsituation für viele Menschen prekär. Eisenbahn, Industrialisierung, Flüchtlinge aus den deutschsprachigen Gebieten Italiens und Wirtschaftskrise hatten Innsbruck an den Rand des Möglichen getrieben. Nach Wien hatte Innsbruck die zweithöchste Anzahl an Bewohnern pro Haus vorzuweisen. Die Mietpreise für Wohnraum waren derart hoch, dass Arbeiter häufig in Etappen schliefen, um sich die Kosten zu teilen. Zwar waren vor allem in Pradl neue Wohnblöcke und Obdachlosenunterkünfte wie das Wohnheim für Arbeiter in der Amthorstraße im Jahr 1907 oder die Herberge in der Hunoldstraße errichtet worden, das genügte aber nicht um der Situation Herr zu werden.

In diesem Klima aus gesellschaftlicher Diktatur und wirtschaftlicher Not entstanden an den Randgebieten der Stadt mehrere Barackensiedlungen, gegründet von den Ausgeschlossenen, Verzweifelten und Abgehängten, die im System keinen Platz fanden. Das ehemalige Kriegsgefangenenlager in der Höttinger Au westlich der Stadt diente Obdachlosen als Notunterkunft. Die bis heute bekannteste und berüchtigtste innerstädtische Enklave war die Bocksiedlung am Gebiet der heutigen Reichenau. Zwischen dem damals dort beheimateten Flughafen und dem späteren Konzentrationslager Reichenau siedelten sich ab 1930 mehrere Familien an. Die Entstehungslegende spricht von Otto und Josefa Rauth als Gründerinnen, deren Wohnwagen hier strandete. Das falsche Parteibuch zu haben genügte, um im Innsbruck des Ständestaates keinen leistbaren Wohnraum ergattern zu können, Rauth hatte als bekennender Kommunist das allerfalscheste. Sein Floß, die Noah's Ark, mit dem er über Inn und Donau in die Sowjetunion gelangen wollte, ankerte am Flussufer vor dem Gasthof Sandwirt, ohne je abzulegen. Nach und nach entstand örtlich am Rand der Stadt und sozial am Rand der Gesellschaft eine Siedlung, die von ihrem inoffiziellen Bürgermeister Johann Bock (1900 – 1975) wie eine unabhängige Kommune geleitet wurde. Er regelte den Alltag in seinem Wirkungsbereich in rau-herzlicher Manier. Die Luftangriffe des Zweiten Weltkrieges verschärften die Wohnsituation in Innsbruck und ließen die Bocksiedlung wachsen. Um die 50 Unterkünfte sollen es am Höhepunkt gewesen sein. Auch die Baracken des Konzentrationslagers Reichenau wurden als Schlafplätze genutzt, nachdem die letzten dort verwahrten Nationalsozialisten verlegt oder freigelassen worden waren. Die Bockala hatten einen fürchterlichen Ruf unter den braven Bürgern der restlichen Stadt, bei aller Geschichtsglättung und Nostalgie wohl nicht zu Unrecht. Viele, nicht aber alle Bewohner waren arbeitslos oder kriminell. Oft waren es Bürger, die durch das System fielen, die sich in der Bocksiedlung niederließen. So hilfsbereit und solidarisch die oft exzentrischen Bewohner der Siedlung untereinander sein konnten, waren körperliche Gewalt und Kleinkriminalität an der Tagesordnung. Übermäßiger Alkoholkonsum war gängige Praxis. Asphaltierte Straßen, Kanalisation und Sanitäranlagen gab es ebenso wenig wie eine reguläre Stromversorgung. Sogar die Versorgung mit Trinkwasser war lange prekär, was die ständige Gefahr von Seuchen mit sich brachte. Ausstattung und Bauart der Behausungen waren ebenso heterogen wie ihre Bewohner. Es gab Wohn- und Zirkuswägen, Holzbaracken, Wellblechhütten, Ziegel- und Betonhäuser. Innerhalb der Bocksiedlung kam es zu Vermietung und Verkauf der errichteten Häuser und Wägen. Unter Duldung der Stadt Innsbruck entstanden unter Johann Bock sogar ersessene Werte. Die Bewohner bewirtschafteten Selbstversorgergärten und hielten Vieh, auch Hund und Katze standen in kargen Zeiten am Speiseplan. Fixe Grenzen gab es keine, Bockala zu sein war in Innsbruck ein sozialer Status.  

Der Anfang vom Ende der Bocksiedlung waren die Olympischen Spielen 1964 und ein Brand in der Siedlung im Jahr zuvor. Eine Urban Legend behauptet, das Feuer sei vom Magistrat gelegt worden, um die Räumung des Viertels zu beschleunigen und den Bau des Olympischen Dorfes zu ermöglichen. 1967 verhandelten Bürgermeister Alois Lugger und Johann Bock, Erzählungen nach in alkoholgeschwängerter Atmosphäre, über das weitere Vorgehen und Entschädigungen seitens der Gemeinde für die Räumung. Bis zum faktischen Ende sollte es aber dauern. Erst 1976 wurden die letzten Quartiere wegen hygienischer Mängel unter Zwang verlassen. Viele Bockala wurden in städtische Wohnungen in Pradl, der Reichenau und dem neu errichteten O-Village umgesiedelt. Die Sitten der Bocksiedlung lebten dort unter neuer Adresse noch einige Jahre fort, was zu einem guten Teil bis heute den schlechten Ruf dieser Stadtviertel ausmacht. Weniger gut verankert im Gedächtnis vieler Innsbrucker als die Legenden der Bocksiedlung ist die Zwischenkriegszeit, dabei ist diese Periode oft noch mehr Teil der Alltagskultur als wir wahrnehmen. In Kirchen wie in St. Jakob im Defereggen in Osttirol oder in der Pfarrkirche Fritzens sind Bilder mit Dollfuß als Beschützer der katholischen Kirche mehr oder minder unkommentiert zu sehen. Bis heute gibt es rote und schwarze Autofahrerclubs, Sportverbände, Rettungsgesellschaften und Alpinverbände, deren Wurzeln in diese Zeit zurückreichen. Die Geschichte der Bocksiedlung wurde in vielen Interviews und mühsamer Kleinarbeit vom Stadtarchiv für das Buch „Bocksiedlung. A piece of Innsbruck" of the city archive.