On the south-western outskirts of the city, the Mentlberg Castle and pilgrimage church are two little-noticed gems of Innsbruck's history. The ensemble has probably undergone the most changes of use and ownership of all. Aristocratic residence, place of pilgrimage, hotel, boarding school, barracks, sports centre - nowhere is Innsbruck as versatile as at the foot of the Wiltenberg.
The castle was given its current appearance between 1902 and 1905. The French Prince Ferdinand of Bourbon-Orleans, Duke of Vendome, had acquired the castle 15 years earlier for himself and his wife Sophie, a sister of the Austrian Empress Elisabeth, as a hunting lodge, farm and holiday home. It was probably the location on the edge of the forest, close to the town in the middle of the Alps, that particularly appealed to the couple. Sissi, like her sister more fond of country life than the strict court etiquette of Vienna, was a frequent guest. Fully committed to the French high aristocracy, the prince had his estate remodelled in the spirit of historicism in the form of a Loire chateau in order to have at least a small piece of home in the province of Germany's hereditary enemy. The driveway and boundary wall facing the forest also leave no doubt as to the noble origins of the owners. The neo-Gothic tower at the eastern end with its striking pyramid-shaped roof bears the coat of arms of the French aristocratic house.
The lower part of the estate, where there is a farmstead, meadows and fields, is completely different. Here, the aristocrats showed their love for the Tyrolean country life, which they considered unspoilt. In order to fully satisfy his and his Bavarian wife's rural desires, the duke also acquired the so-called Lower FiggeThe site is now Sieglanger on the banks of the Inn, where he had stables, garages, a park with a greenhouse and a staff annex built.
However, the history of the estate goes back much further. It was first mentioned in 1305 as an estate of Wilten Abbey. The Courtyard on the Gallwiese comprised several hectares of land and the forest rights on the Wiltenberg. Elevated in front of the town, Mentlberg was ideal for a watchtower. Via beacons, so-called Chalk fire the town could be warned of approaching danger. The abbots of Wilten came here on summer holidays to spend the hot season away from monastery politics.
Heinrich Mentlberger, owner of today's Weinhaus Happ, town magistrate and mayor, acquired the estate from Wilten Abbey in 1485. The enterprising contemporary of Maximilian was elevated to the nobility by his sovereign as a member of the Imperial Council, turning Mentlberg from a country estate into the noble baronial estate that gave it its name. Numerous changes of ownership within the aristocracy followed over the next few centuries before Leopold Lindner acquired the estate in 1884. Lindner did not come from the aristocracy, but his ancestors were involved with the Wilten-based company Rosenbacher's Eidam had amassed a considerable fortune as a supplier of farm produce. Like other industrialists of his time, he invested his capital in the growing tourism sector. Lindner saw the potential of the estate in this time of new beginnings and the gold rush of tourism. In Egerdach, which had been benefiting from its spring since 1620, and the Kurhaus in Mühlau, there were already two successful spa and bathing establishments near Innsbruck. A hotel boarding house was created in the count's ambience, which resembled a wellness hotel today. Guests enjoyed treatments such as spruce needle, brine and mineral baths.
The First World War gave the estate a new use. Like Ambras Castle, Mentlberg also became a military hospital. Soldiers were treated in the lung sanatorium. Despite the renovation of the castle at public expense after the war, Duke Ferdinand von Bourbon-Orleans wanted to get rid of his Austrian property. In 1926, the province of Tyrol, an association of Innsbruck innkeepers led by the Hotel Grauer Bär as well as the Alpine Holzindustrie GmbH aus Laibach für das Schloss Mentlberg und den damit zusammenhängenden Besitz. Laibach war erst seit kurzem nicht mehr Teil der Österreichischen Monarchie, sondern ein Teil des Königreichs Jugoslawien, die wirtschaftlichen Verbindungen waren aber aufrecht geblieben. Um 400.000 Schilling erwarb das jugoslawische Unternehmen das Anwesen. Der Plan, das Schloss erneut in ein Hotel zu verwandeln, scheiterte aber nach anfänglicher Euphorie und hohen Investments. Nur zwei Jahre später gingen die insgesamt 70 Hektar Grund um 600.000 Schilling an das Land Tirol. Der Gallwiesenhof on the Mentlberg was to be transformed into a model estate for agricultural training purposes, with the castle serving as accommodation for the students and apprentices of the educational establishment. The bold plan to Lower Figge to build a bathing beach on the Inn never materialised. Instead, the land was used in the 1930s for the construction of the Dollfuß and fishermen's housing estate.
In 1932, the castle was to be used as a home for mothers and babies, but this proposal was rejected by the provincial parliament due to the overly ostentatious ambience. In the financially difficult times after the economic crisis, the provincial government decided to lease the castle as a hotel for 6,000 shillings in order to relieve the provincial budget.
The plan to organise the slalom of the 1933 World Ski Championships on the Mentlberg also failed, not because of finances but because of the snow conditions, at least in that year. The following year, the slopes next to the castle ""...the 40 best-placed downhill skiers in the Pfriemesköpfl - Mutters race... for the prize of honour of Federal Chancellor Dr Dollfuß...“
In the late 1930s and the post-war period, Mentlberg Castle was used for military and administrative purposes. After being used as a barracks by the Austrian army, it was the location of the Reich Labour Service. Under the law, young men and women were obliged to work as Soldiers of labour to take on charitable work. In addition to the educational and disciplinary component of this service as part of propaganda, the Nazi regime also succeeded in drastically reducing the unemployment figures in the areas newly annexed to the Reich in one fell swoop. After the war, the French occupying forces took up residence in the castle for a short time before it once again became a school and apprenticeship centre. After 2015, the building was used as a refugee centre. The province of Tyrol is currently converting Mentlberg into a centre for disaster control in compliance with the preservation order.
To the east of the castle is the Mentlberg pilgrimage church, a classic product of the Baroque period. An officer in the imperial army brought a statue of the Mother of God with the body of Jesus back to Tyrol from his deployment in the Thirty Years' War (1618 - 1648). Due to economic hardship and war, the 17th century was the heyday of Christian superstition, in which people attributed their personal fate to the intervention of saints. The soldier's father, Ferdinand von Khuepach, zu Ried, was the owner of Mentlberg Castle and decided to erect the wooden figure in the small chapel on his estate. Similar to the Tummelplatz, the "Sorrowful mother on the Gallwiese" miraculous healings here too. Wilten Abbey reacted quickly to promote the pilgrimage. The abbot had seven picture pillars erected along the path from Wilten to Mentlberg and renovated the ageing chapel. The Seven Sleepers, an ancient legend of seven young martyrs from Ephesus, were particularly revered as intercessors in cases of high fever and insomnia. The abbot of Wilten Abbey therefore had a depiction of the grotto in which the seven boys were imprisoned erected in the chapel.
Im 18. Jahrhundert wurde Mentlberg zu einem veritablen Wallfahrtsort. Ob es die Schönheit des Ortes samt der tollen Aussicht auf das Inntal oder der offizielle, sehr barocke Name der Kirche „Our Lady of Sorrows“ war, der die Menschen anzog, kann nicht mehr nachvollzogen werden. 1770 wurde nach Plänen von Konstantin Johann Walter, unter anderem Architekt der Triumphpforte und des Umbaus der Hofburg, die bis heute bestehende Kirche im Rokokostil errichtet. Das Deckengemälde mit der Kreuzigungsszene ist typische für diese Zeit. Die Grotte der Siebenschläfer wurde ebenso in die neue Kirche integriert wie das Altarbild der Gnadenmutter und die Holzplastik. Votivbilder zeugen bis heute von der Wundergläubigkeit der frommen Bürger. Heute ist die Kirche am Mentlberg, ob ihrer angenehmen Größe, der wunderschönen barocken Innenausstattung und des Blicks auf die Stadt Innsbruck bei Hochzeitspaaren äußerst beliebt. Vom Schloss startend lassen sich wunderbare Spaziergänge zum Natterer See, dem Eichhof und weiter ins Mittelgebirge unternehmen.