On the south-western outskirts of the city, the Mentlberg Castle and pilgrimage church are two little-noticed gems of Innsbruck's history. The ensemble has probably undergone the most changes of use and ownership of all. Aristocratic residence, place of pilgrimage, hotel, boarding school, barracks, sports centre - nowhere is Innsbruck as versatile as at the foot of the Wiltenberg.
The castle was given its current appearance between 1902 and 1905. The French Prince Ferdinand of Bourbon-Orleans, Duke of Vendome, had acquired the castle 15 years earlier for himself and his wife Sophie, a sister of the Austrian Empress Elisabeth, as a hunting lodge, farm and holiday home. It was probably the location on the edge of the forest, close to the town in the middle of the Alps, that particularly appealed to the couple. Sissi, like her sister more fond of country life than the strict court etiquette of Vienna, was a frequent guest. Fully committed to the French high aristocracy, the prince had his estate remodelled in the spirit of historicism in the form of a Loire chateau in order to have at least a small piece of home in the province of Germany's hereditary enemy. The driveway and boundary wall facing the forest also leave no doubt as to the noble origins of the owners. The neo-Gothic tower at the eastern end with its striking pyramid-shaped roof bears the coat of arms of the French aristocratic house.
The lower part of the estate, where there is a farmstead, meadows and fields, is completely different. Here, the aristocrats showed their love for the Tyrolean country life, which they considered unspoilt. In order to fully satisfy his and his Bavarian wife's rural desires, the duke also acquired the so-called Lower FiggeThe site is now Sieglanger on the banks of the Inn, where he had stables, garages, a park with a greenhouse and a staff annex built.
However, the history of the estate goes back much further. It was first mentioned in 1305 as an estate of Wilten Abbey. The Courtyard on the Gallwiese comprised several hectares of land and the forest rights on the Wiltenberg. Elevated in front of the town, Mentlberg was ideal for a watchtower. Via beacons, so-called Chalk fire the town could be warned of approaching danger. The abbots of Wilten came here on summer holidays to spend the hot season away from monastery politics.
Heinrich Mentlberger, Besitzer des heutigen Weinhaus Happ, Stadtrichter und Bürgermeister, erwarb 1485 den Ansitz vom Stift Wilten. Der umtriebige Zeitgenosse Maximilians wurde von seinem Landesherrn als Mitglied des Kaiserlichen Rates in den Adelsstand erhoben, womit Mentlberg vom Landgut zum namensgebenden freiherrlichen Edelhof wurde. In den nächsten Jahrhunderten folgten zahlreiche Besitzerwechsel innerhalb der Aristokratie, bevor Leopold Lindner 1884 das Anwesen erwarb. Lindner entstammte nicht dem Adel, seine Vorfahren waren aber mit dem in Wilten beheimateten Unternehmen Rosenbachers Eidam als Hofwachswaren-Lieferanten zu einem ansehnlichen Vermögen gekommen. Wie andere Industrielle seiner Zeit, investierte er sein Kapital in den wachsenden Tourismussektor. Lindner sah in dieser Aufbruchs- und Goldgräberzeit des Fremdenverkehrs das Potenzial des Anwesens. In Egerdach, das bereits seit 1620 von seiner Quelle profitierte und dem Kurhaus in Mühlau gab es bereits zwei erfolgreiche Kur- und Badebetriebe nahe Innsbruck. Im gräflichen Ambiente entstand eine Hotelpension, die einem Wellnesshotel heutzutage ähnelte. Gäste genossen Anwendungen wie Fichtennadel-, Sole- und Mineralbäder.
The First World War gave the estate a new use. Like Ambras Castle, Mentlberg also became a military hospital. Soldiers were treated in the lung sanatorium. Despite the renovation of the castle at public expense after the war, Duke Ferdinand von Bourbon-Orleans wanted to get rid of his Austrian property. In 1926, the province of Tyrol, an association of Innsbruck innkeepers led by the Hotel Grauer Bär as well as the Alpine Holzindustrie GmbH from Ljubljana for Mentlberg Castle and the associated property. Ljubljana had only recently ceased to be part of the Austrian monarchy and had become part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, but the economic ties had remained intact. The Yugoslavian company acquired the property for 400,000 schillings.
However, the plan to turn the castle into a hotel again failed after initial euphoria and high investments. Just two years later, the 70 hectares of land went to the state of Tyrol for 600,000 schillings. The Gallwiesenhof on the Mentlberg was to be transformed into a model estate for agricultural training purposes, with the castle serving as accommodation for the students and apprentices of the educational establishment. The bold plan to Lower Figge to build a bathing beach on the Inn never materialised. Instead, the land was used in the 1930s for the construction of the Dollfuß and fishermen's housing estate.
In 1932, the castle was to be used as a home for mothers and babies, but this proposal was rejected by the provincial parliament due to the overly ostentatious ambience. In the financially difficult times after the economic crisis, the provincial government decided to lease the castle as a hotel for 6,000 shillings in order to relieve the provincial budget.
The plan to organise the slalom of the 1933 World Ski Championships on the Mentlberg also failed, not because of finances but because of the snow conditions, at least in that year. The following year, the slopes next to the castle ""...the 40 best-placed downhill skiers in the Pfriemesköpfl - Mutters race... for the prize of honour of Federal Chancellor Dr Dollfuß...“
In the late 1930s and the post-war period, Mentlberg Castle was used for military and administrative purposes. After being used as a barracks by the Austrian army, it was the location of the Reich Labour Service. Under the law, young men and women were obliged to work as Soldiers of labour to take on charitable work. In addition to the educational and disciplinary component of this service as part of propaganda, the Nazi regime also succeeded in drastically reducing the unemployment figures in the areas newly annexed to the Reich in one fell swoop. After the war, the French occupying forces took up residence in the castle for a short time before it once again became a school and apprenticeship centre. After 2015, the building was used as a refugee centre. The province of Tyrol is currently converting Mentlberg into a centre for disaster control in compliance with the preservation order.
To the east of the castle is the Mentlberg pilgrimage church, a classic product of the Baroque period. An officer in the imperial army brought a statue of the Mother of God with the body of Jesus back to Tyrol from his deployment in the Thirty Years' War (1618 - 1648). Due to economic hardship and war, the 17th century was the heyday of Christian superstition, in which people attributed their personal fate to the intervention of saints. The soldier's father, Ferdinand von Khuepach, zu Ried, was the owner of Mentlberg Castle and decided to erect the wooden figure in the small chapel on his estate. Similar to the Tummelplatz, the "Sorrowful mother on the Gallwiese" miraculous healings here too. Wilten Abbey reacted quickly to promote the pilgrimage. The abbot had seven picture pillars erected along the path from Wilten to Mentlberg and renovated the ageing chapel. The Seven Sleepers, an ancient legend of seven young martyrs from Ephesus, were particularly revered as intercessors in cases of high fever and insomnia. The abbot of Wilten Abbey therefore had a depiction of the grotto in which the seven boys were imprisoned erected in the chapel.
Im 18. Jahrhundert war Mentlberg zu einem veritablen Wallfahrtsort geworden. Ob es die Schönheit des Ortes samt der tollen Aussicht auf das Inntal oder der offizielle, sehr barocke Name der Kirche „Schmerzhafte Muttergottes“ war, der die Menschen anzog, kann nicht mehr nachvollzogen werden. 1770 wurde nach Plänen von Konstantin Johann Walter, unter anderem Architekt der Triumphpforte und des Umbaus der Hofburg, die bis heute bestehende Kirche im Rokokostil errichtet. Das Deckengemälde mit der Kreuzigungsszene ist typische für diese Zeit. Die Grotte der Siebenschläfer wurde ebenso in die neue Kirche integriert wie das Altarbild der Gnadenmutter und die Holzplastik. Votivbilder zeugen bis heute von der Wundergläubigkeit der frommen Bürger.
Today, the church on Mentlberg is extremely popular with wedding couples due to its pleasant size, the beautiful baroque interior and the view of the city of Innsbruck. Starting from the castle, you can take wonderful walks to Lake Natterer See, the Eichhof and further into the low mountain range.