Nestled in the forest slightly above Ambras Castle lies the remarkable burial and memorial site known as the Tummelplatz. The name derives from the horses of Ambras Castle, which were trained here outside the gates of the princely residence and thus “tummelten” (frolicked). The crosses and gravestones—of varying ages and in some cases elaborately crafted—tell the stories and fates of soldiers from different eras.
The clearing began its function as a cemetery during the Napoleonic Wars. When the fighting reached Tyrol between 1796 and 1815, the then‑vacant Ambras Castle was converted into a military hospital. Many of those who died there were buried at the nearby Tummelplatz. In 1799, Amras’s local leader Johann Georg Sokopf placed a sign at the entrance to the burial site in the forest, officially marking it as such. During the wars of 1848, 1859, and 1866, Ambras Castle again served as a hospital. Soldiers from all crown lands of the vast Habsburg Empire—and five nurses who died at the castle—were buried at the Tummelplatz until 1856.
Before long, eerie legends about the soldiers’ cemetery circulated among the people of Innsbruck. After an apparition of the Virgin Mary and a reported miraculous healing, the Tummelplatz became a pilgrimage site. Small chapels soon appeared. Today, six chapels of different styles and periods sit among the graves. At the eastern entrance, visitors are welcomed by the Kaiserschützen Chapel, designed by Clemens Holzmeister and built in 1922 under the supervision of Theodor Prachensky. The Tyrolean artist Alfons Walde created the mural depicting two Kaiserschützen in large format. The chapel houses a relic of the last Habsburg emperor, Karl I. In 2004, more than 80 years after his death on Madeira, he was beatified at the initiative of the Kaiser Karl Prayer League, founded in 1895 and chaired by the Archbishop of Vienna. The relic—a splinter of one of the emperor’s finger bones—was transferred to its final resting place in 2017 in the presence of the emperor’s last grandson, as well as representatives of the Kaiserschützen Association, the Wilten brass band, the Tyrolean riflemen, and numerous high‑ranking Tyrolean and Innsbruck politicians.
The most striking structure is the Cross Chapel (Kreuzkapelle), funded through donations in 1897. On 11 October of that year, the Innsbrucker Nachrichten reported:
„Auf der dem Tummelplatz zugekehrten Stirnseite ist der Eingang der Kapelle in gothischem Spitzbogen. Eine über dem Portale angebrachten Marmortafel verkündet die Widmung der Kapelle zur frommen Erinnerung an die in den Freiheitskämpfen von 1797 und 1809 gefallenen und hier begrabenen Krieger. Den oberen Teil des Giebels schmückt ein Rundfenster in Form eines Dreipasses. Überkrönt ist die ganze Stirnseite von einem als Thürmchen für 2 hellklingende Glöcklein verwendeten Dachreiter, der einen stilgerechten Abschluss bildet. … Im Schiffe der Kapelle ist an der Wand der Westseite neben dem Fenster eine Votivtafel aus Marmor in die Mauer eingelassen, deren Inschrift an das furchtbare Schicksal erinnert, welches beim Brande eines Wohltätigkeitsbazarss in Paris am 4. Mai 1897 die Herzogin Charlotte Augusta von Alencon ereilte.“
Die Fassade wurde während des Ersten Weltkriegs 1917 von Anton Kirchner gestaltet und zeigt Soldaten der Italienfront, die einen Holzsarg ziehen. Die Mater Dolorosa mit dem Leichnam Christi im Arm, bekniet von Schützen und Soldaten wacht über der gespenstischen Szene. Darunter findet sich ein martialisches Gedicht Anton Müllers (1870 – 1939), besser bekannt als Bruder Willram, der während des Ersten Weltkriegs mit seinen Schriften und Predigten zu Antisemitismus, Kriegshetze und Propaganda beitrug. Er verband die Erhebung von 1809, Tiroler Heldenmut, Kaisertreue und Katholizismus zu einem Bild, dem die Schlachten des industrialisierten Kriegs zwischen 1914 und 1918 wohl nicht entsprachen. Die erste Strophe lautet:
“It was in our glorious fathers’ time,
when ancestors pledged their lives sublime
as sacrifice to hostile might.
Now dyed the grandson with his blood
the dust of fathers with holy flood
upon our everlasting heights.”
During the renovation of the chapel in 1969, Anton Plattner’s painting ‘The Risen Savior Overcomes Death’ was added to the interior. In addition to these two main chapels, the Tummelplatz also features the Sokopf Chapel—named after the Amras municipal leader who officially marked the site—the Lourdes Chapel, the Antonius Chapel, and the Joseph Chapel. Student fraternities, professional guilds, and associations commemorate their fallen members with monuments at the Tummelplatz.
Today, the Tummelplatz serves both as a memorial site for relatives of war victims buried far away on the battlefields of the world wars and as a reminder of the importance of peace. The various monuments and grave inscriptions demonstrate how dramatically perspectives on war and peace have shifted since World War I, when a population shaped by propaganda was willing to sacrifice its life “on the field of honor” for God, Emperor, and Fatherland. One gravestone, bearing an image of the Virgin Mary (Gnadenmutter Mariahilf) by Lucas Cranach, features a poem that reads:
I wore it with honour,
the Kaiserjäger dress of honour,
and was in his younger days,
also willing to die.
To die for the fatherland,
is the soldier's fortune, he will inherit heaven,
and does not want to go back.
So do not weep for your loved ones,
it's well done to me,
and you remained the consolation,
that we will meet again.
It is to be hoped that misguided patriotism expressed on inscriptions such as ‘We are ready to give property and life for the Fatherland’ will forever remain a thing of the past. At Christmas and other holidays, especially on the first Sunday after All Saints’ Day, events are held to commemorate the fallen. Kaiserjäger, Kaiserschützen, politicians, and clergy gather to solemnly call for peace—sometimes under traditions that appear rather bizarre, dressed in historical costumes.